Yohji Yamamoto: You ain’t nothin’ but a hound’s tooth. But you look doggone good. Guests settling into a Yohji Yamamoto show arrive with certain expectations. We know the designer will showcase his vivid imagination and masterful technique via a singular theme, richly developed. But beyond that, we’re clueless. Yamamoto has proven time and again that he is capable of turning his attentions any which way — refined, raw, jubilant, dour, outlandish, sedate.

In the fall collection he showed on Sunday night, his second since shifting his ready-to-wear show to the couture schedule, Yamamato went for the strong and hearty, centered around big, brash, houndstooth checks — layers and layers of them, piled on, wrapped up, fringed, swathed in giant shawls draped for warmth and drama. In so doing, he took issue with the notion that delicacy is an essential element of chic.

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