Yohji Yamamoto: You ain’t nothin’ but a hound’s tooth. But you look doggone good. Guests settling into a Yohji Yamamoto show arrive with certain expectations. We know the designer will showcase his vivid imagination and masterful...
Yohji Yamamoto: You ain’t nothin’ but a hound’s tooth. But you look doggone good. Guests settling into a Yohji Yamamoto show arrive with certain expectations. We know the designer will showcase his vivid imagination and masterful technique via a singular theme, richly developed. But beyond that, we’re clueless. Yamamoto has proven time and again that he is capable of turning his attentions any which way — refined, raw, jubilant, dour, outlandish, sedate.
In the fall collection he showed on Sunday night, his second since shifting his ready-to-wear show to the couture schedule, Yamamato went for the strong and hearty, centered around big, brash, houndstooth checks — layers and layers of them, piled on, wrapped up, fringed, swathed in giant shawls draped for warmth and drama. In so doing, he took issue with the notion that delicacy is an essential element of chic.
He set up his argument with a bold fringed coat and short skirt, worn with street urchin leggings and butch hair and makeup. Then out came a series of variations on the theme, each one strengthening his point, until Yamamoto was fully engaged in the grand gesture, working pattern against pattern and introducing red-and-black lumberjack fare. That play, however, was nothing compared with the range of cut, as out came shapes — some fluid, some with strong shoulders, some molded at the hips — that could variously keep a forester, Sonja Henie and Joan Crawford all looking divine.
But such antithesis is Yamamoto’s forte. As a result, in the midst of the abundance of fabric and layers, he worked in some sleek black suits with his typical intricacies of construction, and spectacular leathers, including a très Parisienne zippered trench, and others with raw-cut hems that contrasted otherwise chi-chi proportions.
True, the clothes were difficult, but then, nobody ever suggested that Yamamoto’s clothes appeal to pedestrian tastes, which is why last season he made the move to the couture schedule. And while he hardly courted the Oscar set with this collection, even Yohji did a movie-star turn with a fitted black coat with billowing sleeves that opened up over a short skirt. As for that remarkable multichecked suit veiled in black that closed the show, its tiered, wired construction made it a checkmate — of the haute order.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion