MILAN — The new owner of Krizia will unveil fall designs for her brands Marisfrolg and ZhuChongYun on Saturday in Beijing. Ahead of those two runway shows, and in her first interview since WWD’s report of Krizia’s acquisition by Chinese fashion retailer Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion Co. Ltd. last month, owner Zhu Chongyun discussed her views on the storied Italian brand. Zhu succeeds Krizia founder and creative director Mariuccia Mandelli, who is passing the baton after six decades in business. Zhu’s first collection for Krizia will bow in February in Milan. As reported, Marisfrolg is based in Shenzhen but Krizia will continue to be based in Milan. Although financial details of the transaction, which is expected to be finalized in the spring, were not disclosed, sources peg the deal at around 35 million euros, or $48.6 million at current exchange.Zhu is expected to revamp the brand and, over the next five years, to open Krizia flagships in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Chengdu, and gradually reopen units in the most important cities in Europe, Japan and the U.S.As for her Chinese lines, Marisfrolg Fashion was founded in 1993 and last year reported sales of 2.56 billion yuan, or $418 million. The group controls more than 400 directly operated stores that carry the high-end, contemporary Marisfrolg brand in top-end shopping malls and department stores in China, South Korea, Singapore and Macau. The Krizia line will not be distributed in those stores.Here, Zhu discusses her plans for Krizia:WWD: What drew you to Krizia and what does the brand stand for? What is the label’s strength?Zhu Chongyun: To me, Krizia is classy, elegant and tasteful. I appreciate the brand not only because of the glory it has achieved in the past but also because the style of Krizia matches perfectly my own aesthetics and taste of design.WWD: Mariuccia Mandelli made history with Krizia. What is her main talent and what do you particularly admire?Z.C.: Her vision and pioneering spirit, the way she managed to express attitude, strength and powerfulness of women through her works. I admire what Mrs. Mandelli has done for Krizia in the past. Based on what Mrs. Mandelli has built, it will be my challenge and responsibility to make the brand even better.WWD: What is the brand awareness in China today?Z.C.: For the public in China. Krizia is not very well-known, while for the fashion community it is recognized as an iconic brand.WWD: What are your projects for the brand both in terms of design and distribution?Z.C.: In terms of design, I will spend one year studying the archive pieces of Krizia, finding its spirit and characteristics, try to draw the key elements from the style and combine them with modern twists that correspond to the current trend. In terms of retail, we have plans to relaunch the flagship store in Milan, then gradually reopen flagship stores in the most important cities of Europe, Japan, USA and open new flagship stores in China.WWD: Who will design the line?Z.C.: Me, and my future design team for Krizia. We will recruit excellent designer talents worldwide to form the new design team. I will work together with them to restore the past glory of Krizia. We will rebuild it as a pure Made in Italy brand. The collection will be designed and produced entirely in Italy with Italian fabrics.WWD: Krizia was a pioneer in expanding its product offer in terms of licensing and a different range of lines. Is this something you would like to pursue or would you like to focus on the Krizia brand alone?Z.C.: At the start phase, we will for sure focus only on the Krizia line. We will have to bring Krizia to the heights that it would have achieved first. Starting from there we will assess the past business models and define the next steps.WWD: Are your plans in women’s wear mainly?Z.C.: Yes, women’s wear and accessories.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)