Soft and subtle? Oui. Wonderfully wacky? Oui. The fall Paris shows featured looks that ran from reserved to rebellious.
Chanel: Anyone who has ever pondered Karl Lagerfeld’s breakneck transcontinental agenda knows that it’s simply not in the man’s nature to take the easy way out. Why settle for rough-hewn bleacher seating, for example, when you can build a mega-runway flanked by VIP boxes down the middle of the Grand Palais? Likewise, Lagerfeld could easily have indulged in the trend du jour with a dark-hearted dissertation on Goth at Chanel. But haute Victoriana and high-collared blouses have long been his haunts. Instead of reprising a style that he delivered to fashion’s fore, the designer took a softer tack for fall, crystallizing his couture message with a look that was by turns stark and Modish, then romantic, working in only a few wicked frills along the way.
To open, Lagerfeld rejuvenated the house staple — those evergreen tweeds — pairing narrow-cut coats with sprightly minis to match, all in a range that ran from tame to zany, as in a combo sparkling with tutti-frutti metallic camellias. Other innovations included a puff of a parka spliced with alternating bands of nappy tweed and nylon, and a sharp black coat bordered with golden bubbles. Lagerfeld’s array of pared-down, Sixties-ish sportswear looked just as fresh, with simple sweaterdresses, jabot-tied blouses and even a cozy cape blooming with knit camellias.
For evening, however, things took a turn for the far-out, as in too far out. Clearly, Lagerfeld is in experimentation mode, and he decked out dresses with tribal beaded breastplates and armored the shoulders of his coats with beaded medallions that clung like barnacles. Moving on to tackle the sheer conundrum, fashion’s eternal puzzle, Lagerfeld wound up in the boudoir, pairing moody sheer dresses with filmy palazzo pants underneath. His lacy gowns were delightfully brooding in chiffon and lace, but what girl — from Lagerfeld’s red-carpet clan on down — doesn’t want to show a little leg when she steps out? Luckily, it’s a problem with an easy fix. Slip into one of Lagerfeld’s heavenly dresses and leave the pajama bottoms at home.Alexander McQueen: Seldom in fashion — seldom in life — does reality live up to the hype. But Alexander McQueen’s fabulously creative, achingly wearable and, ahem, heavily funded show on Friday night was one major exception to the rule. It was, as they say, a moment.
“It’s Highland Rape II,” McQueen said earlier in the week, comparing the look of his meticulously crafted tweeds and tartans with his mid-Nineties tour de force. “It’s very Macbeth.” Inspired not only by Lady Macbeth but also the widows of Culloden, McQueen dedicated the show to Isabella Blow and promised Kate Moss to close, thereby harnessing himself a whole lot of womanly Anglo-power.
Dressed in McQueen’s tailored aristo-tweeds, models turned around a central glass pyramid, with Philip Treacy’s outrageous flock of bird hats heightening the slightly daffy mood. Hourglass jackets curved down over the hips, while subtly bustled skirts lent proper suits a cheeky touch that sent them happily wobbling down the sexy-frumpy line. Working in the McQueen clan tartan, he tempered the propriety of his opening with a rebellious edge, and without ever lowering the luxe bar. A washed leather jacket was paired with a slim tartan skirt, while a dramatic black fur jacket was shown with a schoolgirl’s kilt. There were dresses of featherweight tulle painstakingly appliquéd with lace or beaded with regal gold vines and laurels.
For anyone who had forgotten, McQueen is one heck of a talented tailor. And, in fact, he made many of the collection’s patterns himself. But while the clothes seemed perfectly to describe McQueen’s own eccentric point of view, they were also astoundingly commercial — both an editor’s and a retailer’s delight. Likewise, his evening gowns were the stuff of dreams, dreams that can also be translated into made-to-order bridal dresses, as he did for many last year. Gowns ran the gamut from a curvy Victorian number with thousands of pheasant feathers to storybook confections in frothy tulle, like the one worn by Moss. Projected into the center of the glass pyramid via a 19th-century optical trick, Miss Moss’s translucent image wistfully writhed siren-like in her tumbling McQueen frills. Too bad she couldn’t have been there in person — she missed a spectacular show.Christian Lacroix: The title of Christian Lacroix’s fall show, “Pavane” — a play on the French word for peacock — promised a lavish display. And Lacroix made a lively enough start with a few sweetly nostalgic pairings: a wisp of a paisley minidress, for instance, was topped by a coat lined in the same fabric, while a sweet red cardigan was trimmed with folksy passementerie and worn with a matching skirt. Soon enough, however, as with all gimmicks, the matchy-matchy tactic lost its charm, especially when applied to, say, a brocade toreador’s suit.
While there were many fine items to be found throughout Lacroix’s collection, including pretty baby-doll dresses and simply done jackets that were in step with the season’s mood, as a whole, it lacked the spark of his best efforts. Of course, it didn’t help matters that low lighting had photographers howling from their pit. And perhaps the show disappointed because it came on the heels of Lacroix’s spectacular January couture show, when he turned a pack of unbelievably pretty peacocks loose to strut the runway.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)