Showing real clothes just comes naturally to some designers, while others are new converts to the notion this season. Then there are those for whom experimentation will always reign supreme.
Christian Dior: Let's get naked — er, nude. And let's do it in high style courtesy of John Galliano, whose spring collection for Christian Dior both intrigued and confounded his audience. A merch fest of the sensual-chic sort, it was filled with beautiful clothes and a fab new slouched-up take on the saddle bag flaunted exit after exit. Yet it took the crowd by complete surprise, especially given the venue — the soaring, spectacularly renovated Grand Palais, a setting many thought would inspire Galliano to equally grand levels of theatrical splendor, all costumed ingeniously and referenced clear up to the cupola and beyond.
Instead Galliano stripped away all fancy, even down to plain hair and makeup, save for a few geometrically whitened eyelids, while building on a single reference from his elaborate July couture collection. That made for spare, nude-toned clothes overlaid with black lace and piping for corsetry outlines and various markings of construction. He worked the motif every which way, in dresses, coats, pants and even a trio of politely alluring two-piece swimsuits, digressing only ever so slightly to replace the black outlines with crystals or to allow the nude to amp up into shades of pink and orange. And because a girl must chase the chill somehow, Galliano countered the overall wispiness with sporty washed denims and a few voluminous leather coats. High evening was but a moment — swaths of chiffon and organza festooned and bunched seemingly at random, yet with the same ethereal calm as the day clothes.
It all made for a lovely, if low-key affair. And if some found it too much so from Galliano, conversion may be only a retail season away.
Lagerfeld Gallery: Karl Lagerfeld is in reevaluation mode. Last week, he established a dazzling new direction at Fendi, and on Wednesday morning, he laid out his creative blueprint for growth mode at Lagerfeld Gallery. In it, he made no-nonsense, unfettered clothes interesting by the well-placed flourish, as if he deliberately sought a mood of Yankee practicality laced with a soupçon of Continental chic. It should provide plenty to smile about in the Hilfiger camp — whatever happens there.Lagerfeld focused on two key themes. Crisp white shirts came in every incarnation — as just plain shirts worn with pants or shorts; extended into dresses and cropped into neat jackets, sometimes trailing long streamers attached at strategic spots. The second motif centered on cutouts, neat circles, loops or teardrops cut into bodices, skirt hems and jacket closures. The lone embellishments on clean-cut silhouettes — even evening dresses were cut from sturdy daytime fabrics — made for a smart, accessible look, decorative but clean, a bit racy without vulgarity. Lagerfeld Gallery has been a collection on the verge for years. Now, given its bountiful resources and the designer's nicely honed vision, it might be poised for real growth.
Comme des Garçons: With childlike pomp and fabric by the bolt, Rei Kawakubo gave her spring collection the royal treatment, approaching the lofty notions of imperial dressing. Her ceremonial costumes consisted of homemade crowns, naturally, Union Jack biker shorts and tops made from crisscrossing lengths of cloth as long as bed sheets wound round and round and round — like clots of fabric armor. A British flag peeped out from one built-in cocoon. Jackets built up around the shoulders with more looping action lent a tailored aspect to Kawakubo's bulky beauty.
And there was no shortage of fabric in Kawakubo's kingdom. Skirts were made from a mix of looping swags of plaid — tartans including Black Watch — tangy yards of Hawaiian prints and spliced-in camouflage.
For some, Kawakubo's cheeky, off-kilter approach, with its ornamental bloat and wondrous wads, was royal, all right: It was the empress' new clothes. For others, those among her most loyal subjects, Queen Rei and her high-minded fun reigned supreme.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)