TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week, which ended its five-day run Sept 5, offered up some stunning clothes like matohu's fresh and modern take on the kimono, LEP LUSS's delicate minimalism and the uniquely Japanese quirkiness of mercibeaucoup and mintdesigns.
Still, some of the collections here lacked originality and rehashed European designers’ ideas rather than propose new ones.
“Young designers have to be more aggressive in showing their personality,” said Takatomo Ogawa, a buyer for Nara Store in Nagoya. “I was looking for a new talent during Japan Fashion Week but no newcomer satisfied my buying appetite.”
Despite the mixed reviews of JFW, there are still plenty of up-and-coming designers here worth checking out. Here’s a recap of the week:
Rows of opened umbrellas bearing a lace pattern lined the wooden boardwalk as Mintdesigns made a bold move and staged an outdoor show to kick of Japan Fashion Week.
Motonari Ono's one-note show riffed romantic with billowy blouses, corset skirts and tight pants with lace inserts.
Similarly, Fur Fur mined a specific theme—hyper feminine florals and lace—and piled it on the models layer after layer.
The Mercibeaucoup show embodied all that is fun and eclectic about Tokyo fashion.
Though always prepared to strike out on its own, Tokyo fashion often gives a nod in passing to European influences.
Akira Naka who spent much of his early career experimenting with knitwear with intriguing results, but like a true Japanese fashion rebel he chose to go a different direction for spring/summer.
Né Net designer Kazuaki Takashima said he thought about his own interpretation of heaven and hell for his spring/summer collection.
Support Surface's Norio Surikabe also knows a thing or two about a European sensibility.
Ato's spring/summer collection went extreme, albeit in a different way.
Aguri Sagimori showed an intriguing mix of tailored pieces with quirky touches.
The brand Everlasting Sprout got the third day of Japan Fashion Week started with a grating soundtrack — a jarring mix of live sax riffs, spoken word and synthesized cacophony. The clothes were a motley mix too.
Tiny Dinosaur designer Naomi Yamamoto incorporated traditional Japanese design motifs into her spring/summer collection.
Sunao Kuwahara's collection started with a nymph-like girl in a black dress on a green rounded stage. The designer said she looked to "angels in daily life" for inspiration.
A parade of cosmic patterns opened Zechia's collection in the form of a colorful spotted voluminous dress in pink, green and blue. The design duo Lica and Naka said the ladybug inspired their show, staged on a grass runway.
Day four of Japan Fashion Week provided another set of contrasts with some beautifully crafted clothes as well as plenty of theatrics replete with drag queens and a live pony.
Matohu simulated an ancient Japanese tie dying technique this season.
Writtenafterwards, staged its show in a children's puppet theater and used a mannequins and a pony to unveil its collection of candy-striped separates.
Gut's Dynamite Cabarets stayed true to its loyal drag queen fanbase by seating a trio of them in the front row - and putting a few on the catwalk to strut their stuff with a legion of underwear-clad fellows.
G.V.G.V. gave Tokyo a jolt of hard-edged sexiness with body-hugging dresses in bold geometric patterns, pants with zippers running down the entire leg and laced up corset looks.
RaphUs cUcU’s Eriko Isoya showed an endless stream of jersey dresses and jumpsuits in sherbet hues, with drawstring hems and unique fits.
LEP LUSS put out beautifully executed minimalist looks.“By making things simple, that makes the design even stronger,” said Yoshiko Kato, who designs the label with her fellow Issey Miyake alum Seiji Igeta.
Hidenobu Yasui played with volumes and androgyny with his spring/summer collection.
Somarta designer Tamae Hirokawa pondered human bone structure and evolution.She started with a utilitarian zippered pants suit and ended with knit dresses stretched over round metal cages.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)