TOKYO — Japan Fashion Week, which ended its five-day run Sept 5, offered up some stunning clothes like matohu's fresh and modern take on the kimono, LEP LUSS's delicate minimalism and the uniquely Japanese quirkiness of mercibeaucoup and mintdesigns.
Still, some of the collections here lacked originality and rehashed European designers’ ideas rather than propose new ones.
“Young designers have to be more aggressive in showing their personality,” said Takatomo Ogawa, a buyer for Nara Store in Nagoya. “I was looking for a new talent during Japan Fashion Week but no newcomer satisfied my buying appetite.”
Despite the mixed reviews of JFW, there are still plenty of up-and-coming designers here worth checking out. Here’s a recap of the week:
Rows of opened umbrellas bearing a lace pattern lined the wooden boardwalk as Mintdesigns made a bold move and staged an outdoor show to kick of Japan Fashion Week.
Motonari Ono's one-note show riffed romantic with billowy blouses, corset skirts and tight pants with lace inserts.
Similarly, Fur Fur mined a specific theme—hyper feminine florals and lace—and piled it on the models layer after layer.
The Mercibeaucoup show embodied all that is fun and eclectic about Tokyo fashion.
Though always prepared to strike out on its own, Tokyo fashion often gives a nod in passing to European influences.
Akira Naka who spent much of his early career experimenting with knitwear with intriguing results, but like a true Japanese fashion rebel he chose to go a different direction for spring/summer.
Né Net designer Kazuaki Takashima said he thought about his own interpretation of heaven and hell for his spring/summer collection.
Support Surface's Norio Surikabe also knows a thing or two about a European sensibility.
Ato's spring/summer collection went extreme, albeit in a different way.
Aguri Sagimori showed an intriguing mix of tailored pieces with quirky touches.
The brand Everlasting Sprout got the third day of Japan Fashion Week started with a grating soundtrack — a jarring mix of live sax riffs, spoken word and synthesized cacophony. The clothes were a motley mix too.
Tiny Dinosaur designer Naomi Yamamoto incorporated traditional Japanese design motifs into her spring/summer collection.
Sunao Kuwahara's collection started with a nymph-like girl in a black dress on a green rounded stage. The designer said she looked to "angels in daily life" for inspiration.
A parade of cosmic patterns opened Zechia's collection in the form of a colorful spotted voluminous dress in pink, green and blue. The design duo Lica and Naka said the ladybug inspired their show, staged on a grass runway.
Day four of Japan Fashion Week provided another set of contrasts with some beautifully crafted clothes as well as plenty of theatrics replete with drag queens and a live pony.
Matohu simulated an ancient Japanese tie dying technique this season.
Writtenafterwards, staged its show in a children's puppet theater and used a mannequins and a pony to unveil its collection of candy-striped separates.
Gut's Dynamite Cabarets stayed true to its loyal drag queen fanbase by seating a trio of them in the front row - and putting a few on the catwalk to strut their stuff with a legion of underwear-clad fellows.
G.V.G.V. gave Tokyo a jolt of hard-edged sexiness with body-hugging dresses in bold geometric patterns, pants with zippers running down the entire leg and laced up corset looks.
RaphUs cUcU’s Eriko Isoya showed an endless stream of jersey dresses and jumpsuits in sherbet hues, with drawstring hems and unique fits.
LEP LUSS put out beautifully executed minimalist looks.“By making things simple, that makes the design even stronger,” said Yoshiko Kato, who designs the label with her fellow Issey Miyake alum Seiji Igeta.
Hidenobu Yasui played with volumes and androgyny with his spring/summer collection.
Somarta designer Tamae Hirokawa pondered human bone structure and evolution.She started with a utilitarian zippered pants suit and ended with knit dresses stretched over round metal cages.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)