The predominant message from New York Fashion Week points strongly to the continuation of girly, feminine looks, buyers said. The trends that emerged for spring include: long shorts; the color white; exotic animal prints; ethnic influences; baggy, cropped pants; a still vivid, but more restrained color palette; jeweled embellishments; flats, and full skirts.
But while some retailers viewed those “pretty” styles as easily accessible to consumers and thus immensely commercial, others said they were bored by the lack of direction.
The collections retailers commended for really delivering ranged from young designers like Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen to those of more established names like Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Narciso Rodriguez.
Here is what the buyers had to say about the week:
Julie Gilhart, Barneys New York, vice president and fashion director: “I actually really liked this season in New York. There was a lot of energy and I thought the shows were great. But what the designers really brought to the table were color and print, and that’s a good formula for strong retail sales. If there are color and prints then there are sales to be done. From our standpoint, the spring season is going to be great. I think designers handled the fuller volume very well,” in regards to the baggier pant and voluminous skirt and dress silhouettes. “They made it easy to wear, but they also made it look like a different silhouette. However, designers didn’t completely abandon the more body conscious, thin silhouette either and overall gave us a lot of balance.”
Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue, senior fashion director: “It was not a ‘wow’ week. There was not a new clear direction, but there were moments in many shows that showed creativity and a little bit of direction. The big thing is that it’s still a very pretty, feminine, girly season coming up. Trends on the whole include that whole python statement, whether it was real or printed; Moroccan and North African prints, which we love, especially in caftans and tunics, and all the jewel trims. In terms of silhouettes, everyone had a full skirt, either a pouf or softly pleated one. Also, the long short or the cropped, slouchy pants. It was sort of a grab bag of silhouettes. As for the jewels, all the crochet, all the eyelet, we haven’t seen decorative trims like that in a while. Our favorite shows were Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Derek Lam, and we really loved the additional classification of daytime at Vera Wang. We thought it was a bold statement.”
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