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Revving Up

Sporty shapes and bursts of tropical color light up London.

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PPQ: This girl is no monochrome maiden; she wants patterns that are bold and beautiful. Amy Molyneux and Percy Parker mixed up Tahitian, Aztec and tartan prints — and guess what? It worked. A boxy green-and-white striped cotton jacket had a jet-set vibe — especially when paired with a huge black patent tote. There were dresses, too, including a form-fitting, strapless purple tartan number; crocheted black cotton maxidresses, and drop-waisted sundresses with pouffy skirts edged with gold chains. They’ll no doubt appeal to London glamour girls Peaches Geldof and Agyness Deyn, who both walked in the show.

Issa: This city siren has cast off her jersey print wrap and tieback dresses and hopped a flight to Ibiza. Daniella Helayel was in a naughty mood, sending models out in bright red candy-striped caftans and devil-printed sweaters. But there was also a dash of sugar here, too, with sweet cotton biker jackets, and swingy cotton tennis and golf dresses. An Issa girl never fades into the crowd. So, for those evenings at Pacha — Ibiza’s legendary party pit — there were sequin-embroidered caftans and cape dresses.

Louise Goldin: Goldin shifted out of fall’s somber mood to show an accomplished collection of Technicolor, Kandinsky-inspired knit dresses, with artful combinations of weaving techniques and fibers. Dresses were microlength and body-conscious — although there was a racerback trapeze dress and a loose-fitting, ruffle-front number in there, too. Knit swimwear pieces were among the highlights, despite being more poolside than practical. It was clear Goldin was having a ball this season, layering to her heart’s content like a kid with Colorforms and draping those knits like a Madame Vionnet acolyte.

More from the Shows

Danielle Scutt: Scutt revisited her Eighties-pastiche trailer-trash look, which was fun but more of a sequel than a fresh approach.

Topshop Unique: There was a mix of sexy, slouchy sportswear and Grecian-meets-Seventies beach bohemian, including a string of fluttery maxigowns.

Gavin Douglas: Some of Douglas’ silk goddess gowns worked well, but the ruffled minis and vampy dresses covered in giant blue crystals and accessorized with heavy gold chains struck a trashy note.

This story first appeared in the September 17, 2007 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Bjork & McElligott: Kattis Bjork and Sophie McElligott offered a tightly edited collection of structured silk minidresses and high-waisted shorts. But ill-fitting molded bustiers marred the breezy silhouettes.

Amanda Wakeley: A collection full of clean lines, which showed up in a cropped cinnamon leather jacket, white jersey drop-waisted dress and layered chiffon gowns in white and dove gray.

Xterity: A girly collection filled with butterfly- and scribble-print silk dresses and a poufy white ballgown with gold-zipper seams.

Armand Basi: Markus Lupfer’s shirtdresses with crisp, origami style folds were a hit, but the clownish, synthetic-looking pants and raffia tutu skirts fell flat.

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