NEW YORK — “Punk for me is about absolute honesty.”
That is how Riccardo Tisci sized up the theme of The Costume Institute’s new exhibition “Punk: Chaos to Couture” after a preview Monday.
The Givenchy creative director said, “My life has been very punk. I have always had to fight for my rights. I come from a country that has very heavy religious customs. I am very Catholic and I believe in God. I grew up in a family that didn’t have financial wisdom and power. I have had to fight for what I believe in to support women’s rights and other aspects of society to be recognized and understood.
“My own style was more Goth than punk. Now I’m 38. I was born in ’74, so that was a little bit later,” he said. “Punk didn’t last that long as a movement. What was it? One hundred days.”
Punk still resonates because everything about it strikes such emotion with people, Tisci said. “It’s always about respect of humans. Whether it’s fashion, music, art or something else, human respect is what makes it stay on.”
Aside from seeing his own life as being punk, Tisci said Monday that the people he collaborate with are each punk in their own way. As one of the chair’s for Monday’s Met gala, Tisci mentioned how several of his friends and collaborators had agreed to stop working or drop what they were doing for 24 hours to join him. Beyoncé, Madonna, Frank Ocean and Marina Abramovic will be at his table, he said.
Always hatching side projects with Abramovic, Tisci said Parisians are abuzz about the unisex ballet costumes he designed for Abramovic’s all-black mirrored scenography in the new take of Maurice Ravel’s “Boléro” that debuted last week at Opéra Garnier. And there will be more to come.
As for whether he is ever not working, Tisci said, “In life, if you have a very strong point of view you don’t need much. You have to have time to live, to learn, to travel, to see art, to love, to hate, to suffer, then there is my job that takes at least eight hours a day. I don’t like sleeping very much. I think that is wasting time.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast