NEW YORK — “Punk for me is about absolute honesty.”
That is how Riccardo Tisci sized up the theme of The Costume Institute’s new exhibition “Punk: Chaos to Couture” after a preview Monday.
The Givenchy creative director said, “My life has been very punk. I have always had to fight for my rights. I come from a country that has very heavy religious customs. I am very Catholic and I believe in God. I grew up in a family that didn’t have financial wisdom and power. I have had to fight for what I believe in to support women’s rights and other aspects of society to be recognized and understood.
“My own style was more Goth than punk. Now I’m 38. I was born in ’74, so that was a little bit later,” he said. “Punk didn’t last that long as a movement. What was it? One hundred days.”
Punk still resonates because everything about it strikes such emotion with people, Tisci said. “It’s always about respect of humans. Whether it’s fashion, music, art or something else, human respect is what makes it stay on.”
Aside from seeing his own life as being punk, Tisci said Monday that the people he collaborate with are each punk in their own way. As one of the chair’s for Monday’s Met gala, Tisci mentioned how several of his friends and collaborators had agreed to stop working or drop what they were doing for 24 hours to join him. Beyoncé, Madonna, Frank Ocean and Marina Abramovic will be at his table, he said.
Always hatching side projects with Abramovic, Tisci said Parisians are abuzz about the unisex ballet costumes he designed for Abramovic’s all-black mirrored scenography in the new take of Maurice Ravel’s “Boléro” that debuted last week at Opéra Garnier. And there will be more to come.
As for whether he is ever not working, Tisci said, “In life, if you have a very strong point of view you don’t need much. You have to have time to live, to learn, to travel, to see art, to love, to hate, to suffer, then there is my job that takes at least eight hours a day. I don’t like sleeping very much. I think that is wasting time.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion