PARIS — A profusion of inventive talent gave the City of Light an added shot of fashion energy this week.
Veronique Leroy, for example, delivered a strong collection, exploring oversized silhouettes with big blousons and pants that were gathered at the waist. Her gauze-like sweaters and knit leggings worn with ultrashort minis were cool and sexy. A winning effort.
Andrew Gn, for his part, juxtaposed Southeast Asian elements with Sixties psychedelic influences. This translated into colorful embroidered jackets, tops and skirts. Gn, an accomplished colorist, mixed shocking pink with blue, red and orange, beautifully.
Turkish designer Ece Ege went romantic for her Dice Kayek brand. Beautifully wrought, pleated chiffon and satin skirts, finished with ribbons, were paired with more sportif elements, such as little blousons and fitted leather trousers laced up above the ankle.
Vivienne Westwood remains a master of the theatrical. Her energetic collection, which focused on punk glamour, included disheveled dresses with puffy sleeves, trousers with gathered waists and dévoré sweaters.
Jean Paul Knott, who will make his debut at Féraud today, also explored the world of punk in his mostly black, signature collection of draped dresses wrapped around the body with strips of leather with a rock ’n’ roll edge.
Although Belgian Jurgi Persoons has often gone punk, too, this outing he took a softer, more romantic tack. His floral chiffon dresses and pleated skirts illustrated his evolving aesthetic.
Dirk Schonberger, best known for his men’s wear, presented his second women’s collection. His dresses and skirts were impeccably tailored, while his ribbon-sleeve top and pleated white chiffon skirt with a black flower print added a romantic strain.
Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs isn’t the only man in town with a Takashi Murakami collaboration up his sleeve. Cashmere king Lucien Pellat-Finet also commissioned the Japanese artist to do a series of sweaters, which are sprouting with Murakami’s mushroom motifs in bright color mixes. Meanwhile, Pellat-Finet continued to expand his irreverent take on luxury to include high-end jeans made in Japan.
Stephane Parmentier, making his debut at Montana, took a preliminary step down the long road to reviving this house. Leather pieces came with architectural details, while slim trousers were paired with sporty jackets.Léonard design duo Michele and Olivier Chatenet continue to update this house, giving it more of a fashion slant, while respecting its heritage for prints. To that end, they featured kimono-style jackets printed with flowers and sexy jersey dresses.
Japanese designer Atsuro Tayama started with white sportswear, then added energy with colorful striped shirts and skirts. His miniskirts, kimono-style pieces and cargo pants hit on some of the major trends of the season.
Romeo Gigli’s exotic collection ran the gamut from ethnic prints to dresses with laser cutout patterns and metallic tribal bustiers. Gigli mixed loads of color, from burnt ochre to brown, red and gold in this highly individual show.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)