PARIS — A profusion of inventive talent gave the City of Light an added shot of fashion energy this week.
Veronique Leroy, for example, delivered a strong collection, exploring oversized silhouettes with big blousons and pants that were gathered at the waist. Her gauze-like sweaters and knit leggings worn with ultrashort minis were cool and sexy. A winning effort.
Andrew Gn, for his part, juxtaposed Southeast Asian elements with Sixties psychedelic influences. This translated into colorful embroidered jackets, tops and skirts. Gn, an accomplished colorist, mixed shocking pink with blue, red and orange, beautifully.
Turkish designer Ece Ege went romantic for her Dice Kayek brand. Beautifully wrought, pleated chiffon and satin skirts, finished with ribbons, were paired with more sportif elements, such as little blousons and fitted leather trousers laced up above the ankle.
Vivienne Westwood remains a master of the theatrical. Her energetic collection, which focused on punk glamour, included disheveled dresses with puffy sleeves, trousers with gathered waists and dévoré sweaters.
Jean Paul Knott, who will make his debut at Féraud today, also explored the world of punk in his mostly black, signature collection of draped dresses wrapped around the body with strips of leather with a rock ’n’ roll edge.
Although Belgian Jurgi Persoons has often gone punk, too, this outing he took a softer, more romantic tack. His floral chiffon dresses and pleated skirts illustrated his evolving aesthetic.
Dirk Schonberger, best known for his men’s wear, presented his second women’s collection. His dresses and skirts were impeccably tailored, while his ribbon-sleeve top and pleated white chiffon skirt with a black flower print added a romantic strain.
Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs isn’t the only man in town with a Takashi Murakami collaboration up his sleeve. Cashmere king Lucien Pellat-Finet also commissioned the Japanese artist to do a series of sweaters, which are sprouting with Murakami’s mushroom motifs in bright color mixes. Meanwhile, Pellat-Finet continued to expand his irreverent take on luxury to include high-end jeans made in Japan.
Stephane Parmentier, making his debut at Montana, took a preliminary step down the long road to reviving this house. Leather pieces came with architectural details, while slim trousers were paired with sporty jackets.Léonard design duo Michele and Olivier Chatenet continue to update this house, giving it more of a fashion slant, while respecting its heritage for prints. To that end, they featured kimono-style jackets printed with flowers and sexy jersey dresses.
Japanese designer Atsuro Tayama started with white sportswear, then added energy with colorful striped shirts and skirts. His miniskirts, kimono-style pieces and cargo pants hit on some of the major trends of the season.
Romeo Gigli’s exotic collection ran the gamut from ethnic prints to dresses with laser cutout patterns and metallic tribal bustiers. Gigli mixed loads of color, from burnt ochre to brown, red and gold in this highly individual show.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)