PARIS — A profusion of inventive talent gave the City of Light an added shot of fashion energy this week.
This story first appeared in the October 9, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Veronique Leroy, for example, delivered a strong collection, exploring oversized silhouettes with big blousons and pants that were gathered at the waist. Her gauze-like sweaters and knit leggings worn with ultrashort minis were cool and sexy. A winning effort.
Andrew Gn, for his part, juxtaposed Southeast Asian elements with Sixties psychedelic influences. This translated into colorful embroidered jackets, tops and skirts. Gn, an accomplished colorist, mixed shocking pink with blue, red and orange, beautifully.
Turkish designer Ece Ege went romantic for her Dice Kayek brand. Beautifully wrought, pleated chiffon and satin skirts, finished with ribbons, were paired with more sportif elements, such as little blousons and fitted leather trousers laced up above the ankle.
Vivienne Westwood remains a master of the theatrical. Her energetic collection, which focused on punk glamour, included disheveled dresses with puffy sleeves, trousers with gathered waists and dévoré sweaters.
Jean Paul Knott, who will make his debut at Féraud today, also explored the world of punk in his mostly black, signature collection of draped dresses wrapped around the body with strips of leather with a rock ’n’ roll edge.
Although Belgian Jurgi Persoons has often gone punk, too, this outing he took a softer, more romantic tack. His floral chiffon dresses and pleated skirts illustrated his evolving aesthetic.
Dirk Schonberger, best known for his men’s wear, presented his second women’s collection. His dresses and skirts were impeccably tailored, while his ribbon-sleeve top and pleated white chiffon skirt with a black flower print added a romantic strain.
Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs isn’t the only man in town with a Takashi Murakami collaboration up his sleeve. Cashmere king Lucien Pellat-Finet also commissioned the Japanese artist to do a series of sweaters, which are sprouting with Murakami’s mushroom motifs in bright color mixes. Meanwhile, Pellat-Finet continued to expand his irreverent take on luxury to include high-end jeans made in Japan.
Stephane Parmentier, making his debut at Montana, took a preliminary step down the long road to reviving this house. Leather pieces came with architectural details, while slim trousers were paired with sporty jackets.
Léonard design duo Michele and Olivier Chatenet continue to update this house, giving it more of a fashion slant, while respecting its heritage for prints. To that end, they featured kimono-style jackets printed with flowers and sexy jersey dresses.
Japanese designer Atsuro Tayama started with white sportswear, then added energy with colorful striped shirts and skirts. His miniskirts, kimono-style pieces and cargo pants hit on some of the major trends of the season.
Romeo Gigli’s exotic collection ran the gamut from ethnic prints to dresses with laser cutout patterns and metallic tribal bustiers. Gigli mixed loads of color, from burnt ochre to brown, red and gold in this highly individual show.