From tough-girl leathers and chunky knits to velvet and sweet chiffon, one thing remains the same — the deeper the hue, the better.
Kenneth Cole: Fashion types can sometimes take themselves oh so seriously. So kudos to Kenneth Cole for kicking off the week with a little self-lampoon via his typical show-opening message videos. His causes du jour: The Air-Kiss Challenged Society, OFD (obsessive "fabulous" disorder, striking the vocabulary of millions) and Catwalkers Anonymous, who can't help but strut their stuff in supermodel homage.
Happily, the laughs ended with an afflicted fat guy doing his Linda Evangelista swivel at work, as Cole turned serious when his own models hit the runway. They paraded his increasing dedication to polished sportswear, as he continues to zero in on an attitude of snappy practicality. Thus, pleasantly familiar shapes cut from dark wools, cashmeres and skins projected urbane panache sans pretense: a belted rust suede jacket over pants; a discreet plaid trench; a shapely, shawl-collared suit dressed down with men's-inspired lace-up shoes.
But such jauntiness has its limits, so Cole mixed in girlier moments, as well. And if his drapy Grecian numbers felt labored, he countered the toil with delightfully breezy dresses in pleated chiffon.
Yigal Azrouël: Yigal, you've come a long way since the simple draped jersey dresses you started with. And we're glad you got here because your fall showing was a great time. As fashion presentations go, Azrouël did exactly what a good designer is supposed to do: leave everyone wanting more. More of those beautiful, fluid chiffon gowns with contrasting velvet straps; more of the whispery thin leather jackets that draped like silk; more of that chunky brown cardigan — one just wasn't enough — worn over a tailored tuxedo-style shirt.
Inspired by the ethereal, "shattered" vases created by his nephew Dror Benshetrit, a recent favorite among design buffs, Azrouël channeled his ideas into a trim 13 looks for day and night. "I like the balance of the two," he said. "It's how you wear it, like a nighttime jacket for day. It's glamorous." He knew exactly when to lay on the details — pintucking cream and black panels into a knee-length dress and adding tuxedo ruffs to crisp white blouses — and when to pull back, as when he sewed just a few florettes along the neckline of a pretty blue-and-black floral dress. He mixed in a lot of different fabrics, shapes and prints, but pulled it all together with a singular vision of sophisticated ready-to-wear.Nicole Miller: Nicole Miller is a self-professed metalhead — as in gold, silver, copper and anything else remotely shiny. So her love of the glittering stuff played perfectly into the Byzantine world she stepped into for fall. She translated it best for day where, if she went for a strong silhouette, she muted the colors and vice versa. A bright copper-trimmed floral, for instance, added zip to an otherwise simple shirtdress. There were plenty of the boldly printed blouses and coats that mark a Miller collection, but she didn't always resort to graphics. While it wasn't necessarily a more minimal direction, it did push her toward something sexier, seen in the tough-girl leather jackets and stovepipes, as well as a dark organza shirt that was steamy in its strict, almost confining cut. She also offered a group of appealing black and brown wool coats and jackets, most often in swingy styles with three-quarter-length sleeves and fur trims.
Tocca: Tocca's Samantha Sung took a step in a new direction after taking over the design helm from Ellis Kreuger last season. For fall, Sung went down the poor boy's country path — circa 19th-century Charles Dickens — for that romantic, Victorian bent. There were dashes of Oliver Twist tweed and street urchin silhouettes such as shrunken boy jackets and knickers. But there was also an "East meets West" theme, according to the designer, and to that end there was a flurry of Hungarian peasant dresses, Turkish hand-embroidered tops and skirts, as well as tweeds, floral lace, corduroy and crushed velvet, sometimes all in a single garment. It made for a helter-skelter collection, yes, but when Sung reined in her creative wanderlust, the all-over look turned beautifully busy.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews