From tough-girl leathers and chunky knits to velvet and sweet chiffon, one thing remains the same — the deeper the hue, the better.
Kenneth Cole: Fashion types can sometimes take themselves oh so seriously. So kudos to Kenneth Cole for kicking off the week with a little self-lampoon via his typical show-opening message videos. His causes du jour: The Air-Kiss Challenged Society, OFD (obsessive "fabulous" disorder, striking the vocabulary of millions) and Catwalkers Anonymous, who can't help but strut their stuff in supermodel homage.
Happily, the laughs ended with an afflicted fat guy doing his Linda Evangelista swivel at work, as Cole turned serious when his own models hit the runway. They paraded his increasing dedication to polished sportswear, as he continues to zero in on an attitude of snappy practicality. Thus, pleasantly familiar shapes cut from dark wools, cashmeres and skins projected urbane panache sans pretense: a belted rust suede jacket over pants; a discreet plaid trench; a shapely, shawl-collared suit dressed down with men's-inspired lace-up shoes.
But such jauntiness has its limits, so Cole mixed in girlier moments, as well. And if his drapy Grecian numbers felt labored, he countered the toil with delightfully breezy dresses in pleated chiffon.
Yigal Azrouël: Yigal, you've come a long way since the simple draped jersey dresses you started with. And we're glad you got here because your fall showing was a great time. As fashion presentations go, Azrouël did exactly what a good designer is supposed to do: leave everyone wanting more. More of those beautiful, fluid chiffon gowns with contrasting velvet straps; more of the whispery thin leather jackets that draped like silk; more of that chunky brown cardigan — one just wasn't enough — worn over a tailored tuxedo-style shirt.
Inspired by the ethereal, "shattered" vases created by his nephew Dror Benshetrit, a recent favorite among design buffs, Azrouël channeled his ideas into a trim 13 looks for day and night. "I like the balance of the two," he said. "It's how you wear it, like a nighttime jacket for day. It's glamorous." He knew exactly when to lay on the details — pintucking cream and black panels into a knee-length dress and adding tuxedo ruffs to crisp white blouses — and when to pull back, as when he sewed just a few florettes along the neckline of a pretty blue-and-black floral dress. He mixed in a lot of different fabrics, shapes and prints, but pulled it all together with a singular vision of sophisticated ready-to-wear.Nicole Miller: Nicole Miller is a self-professed metalhead — as in gold, silver, copper and anything else remotely shiny. So her love of the glittering stuff played perfectly into the Byzantine world she stepped into for fall. She translated it best for day where, if she went for a strong silhouette, she muted the colors and vice versa. A bright copper-trimmed floral, for instance, added zip to an otherwise simple shirtdress. There were plenty of the boldly printed blouses and coats that mark a Miller collection, but she didn't always resort to graphics. While it wasn't necessarily a more minimal direction, it did push her toward something sexier, seen in the tough-girl leather jackets and stovepipes, as well as a dark organza shirt that was steamy in its strict, almost confining cut. She also offered a group of appealing black and brown wool coats and jackets, most often in swingy styles with three-quarter-length sleeves and fur trims.
Tocca: Tocca's Samantha Sung took a step in a new direction after taking over the design helm from Ellis Kreuger last season. For fall, Sung went down the poor boy's country path — circa 19th-century Charles Dickens — for that romantic, Victorian bent. There were dashes of Oliver Twist tweed and street urchin silhouettes such as shrunken boy jackets and knickers. But there was also an "East meets West" theme, according to the designer, and to that end there was a flurry of Hungarian peasant dresses, Turkish hand-embroidered tops and skirts, as well as tweeds, floral lace, corduroy and crushed velvet, sometimes all in a single garment. It made for a helter-skelter collection, yes, but when Sung reined in her creative wanderlust, the all-over look turned beautifully busy.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews