From tough-girl leathers and chunky knits to velvet and sweet chiffon, one thing remains the same — the deeper the hue, the better.
Kenneth Cole: Fashion types can sometimes take themselves oh so seriously. So kudos to Kenneth Cole for kicking off the week with a little self-lampoon via his typical show-opening message videos. His causes du jour: The Air-Kiss Challenged Society, OFD (obsessive "fabulous" disorder, striking the vocabulary of millions) and Catwalkers Anonymous, who can't help but strut their stuff in supermodel homage.
Happily, the laughs ended with an afflicted fat guy doing his Linda Evangelista swivel at work, as Cole turned serious when his own models hit the runway. They paraded his increasing dedication to polished sportswear, as he continues to zero in on an attitude of snappy practicality. Thus, pleasantly familiar shapes cut from dark wools, cashmeres and skins projected urbane panache sans pretense: a belted rust suede jacket over pants; a discreet plaid trench; a shapely, shawl-collared suit dressed down with men's-inspired lace-up shoes.
But such jauntiness has its limits, so Cole mixed in girlier moments, as well. And if his drapy Grecian numbers felt labored, he countered the toil with delightfully breezy dresses in pleated chiffon.
Yigal Azrouël: Yigal, you've come a long way since the simple draped jersey dresses you started with. And we're glad you got here because your fall showing was a great time. As fashion presentations go, Azrouël did exactly what a good designer is supposed to do: leave everyone wanting more. More of those beautiful, fluid chiffon gowns with contrasting velvet straps; more of the whispery thin leather jackets that draped like silk; more of that chunky brown cardigan — one just wasn't enough — worn over a tailored tuxedo-style shirt.
Inspired by the ethereal, "shattered" vases created by his nephew Dror Benshetrit, a recent favorite among design buffs, Azrouël channeled his ideas into a trim 13 looks for day and night. "I like the balance of the two," he said. "It's how you wear it, like a nighttime jacket for day. It's glamorous." He knew exactly when to lay on the details — pintucking cream and black panels into a knee-length dress and adding tuxedo ruffs to crisp white blouses — and when to pull back, as when he sewed just a few florettes along the neckline of a pretty blue-and-black floral dress. He mixed in a lot of different fabrics, shapes and prints, but pulled it all together with a singular vision of sophisticated ready-to-wear.Nicole Miller: Nicole Miller is a self-professed metalhead — as in gold, silver, copper and anything else remotely shiny. So her love of the glittering stuff played perfectly into the Byzantine world she stepped into for fall. She translated it best for day where, if she went for a strong silhouette, she muted the colors and vice versa. A bright copper-trimmed floral, for instance, added zip to an otherwise simple shirtdress. There were plenty of the boldly printed blouses and coats that mark a Miller collection, but she didn't always resort to graphics. While it wasn't necessarily a more minimal direction, it did push her toward something sexier, seen in the tough-girl leather jackets and stovepipes, as well as a dark organza shirt that was steamy in its strict, almost confining cut. She also offered a group of appealing black and brown wool coats and jackets, most often in swingy styles with three-quarter-length sleeves and fur trims.
Tocca: Tocca's Samantha Sung took a step in a new direction after taking over the design helm from Ellis Kreuger last season. For fall, Sung went down the poor boy's country path — circa 19th-century Charles Dickens — for that romantic, Victorian bent. There were dashes of Oliver Twist tweed and street urchin silhouettes such as shrunken boy jackets and knickers. But there was also an "East meets West" theme, according to the designer, and to that end there was a flurry of Hungarian peasant dresses, Turkish hand-embroidered tops and skirts, as well as tweeds, floral lace, corduroy and crushed velvet, sometimes all in a single garment. It made for a helter-skelter collection, yes, but when Sung reined in her creative wanderlust, the all-over look turned beautifully busy.
Assouline is paying homage to the late Azzedine Alaïa with a reprint of "Alaïa Livre de Collection.” The book is comprised of photographs of the designer's summer 1992 runway show with models Christy Turlington Burns, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks, pictured here at right. #wwdfashion #alaia #tyrabanks
Fall 2018 accessories take on a painterly hue, with Nebulas Blue among Pantone’s top 10 colors of the season. (📸: @jonghyupstudio ; editor: @twallz21 ; stylist and set designer: @haideefindlaylevin ) #wwdaccessories
@americanapparelusa is relaunching the brand outside of the U.S. today, opening its online store to more than 200 countries. The company is also contemplating a return to brick-and-mortar, though details have not been confirmed. In tandem with the expanded distribution is a recasting of a social media ad campagn, called “Back to Basics,” pictured here, with a focus on diversity and a cast of models above the age of 21. Read more on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @britneyspears is continuing to expand her brand. The pop icon, who appears in @kenzo ’s latest campaign, is partnering with Epic Rights to launch a line of branded merchandise. Read @hernameislex ‘s story, link in bio. #wwdnews #britneyspears
The Duchess of Cambridge channeled Princess Diana’s look upon giving birth to Prince Harry, when she and the Duke of Cambridge departed the hospital with the new baby Prince this afternoon in London. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
The new Prince of Cambridge has arrived! The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge posed with the 8-pound newborn. She wore a look from one of her go-to designers, @jennypackham. Tap link in bio for more. #wwdeye #princeofcambridge
Jewelry label @alisonlou has made a name for itself with fine jewelry that speaks to the Millennial market. Now @twallz21 reports that the label is bringing those playful ideas to a new affordable line of lucite hoops with the launch of Loucite by Alison Lou. Here’s a look from the line modeled by @emrata. #wwdaccessories
@sarahjessicaparker and @gilt are teaming up on a bridal ready-to-wear line. Tomorrow, Parker will launch SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker Bridal — and as part of the launch, Gilt will offer 15 exclusive styles from the SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker footwear collection that were designed to complement the new line. Made out of 10 styles, the line is designed for a variety of occasions, from bridal showers to receptions. Get more details on WWD.com #wwdfashion