In a poetic collection, Rick Owens used a lighter hand than usual. Airy fabrics billowed, draped and folded into skirts, blouses and dresses to intriguing effect, occasionally tempered by a hard leather piece, such as a shrunken bolero.

That said, however, this heady, conceptual collection had limited appeal with its repetitive tablecloth skirts and sheer numbers, not to mention the sinister hooded looks. What worked best were the least amorphous shapes, which could make their way from the runway to the real world.

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