Sleek, chic and alluring. Sounds simple enough but plenty difficult for a designer to achieve, yet Roland Mouret did it so beautifully in the fall 2008 ready-to-wear RM collection he showed on Wednesday morning. Mouret hopes to build his business by appealing to a high-end customer’s yen for fashion that is exclusive in terms of quality and distribution. “There is a difference between what is produced in China and what is produced in Europe,” he said before the show, noting that he uses only Italian fabrics and produces exclusively in France. Built on a core of black, gray and ultra-dark green with shots of vibrant color — candy pink, bright yellow, sapphire blue — the collection felt like the tightly edited wardrobe of a stylish woman who is glamorous (and very thin). Mouret worked structured fabrics for dresses and separates and fluid silk crepe in softer back-draped dresses. Either way, save for a fabulous coat that fell loose in back, everything was ultralean, often with geometric details such as a pleated waistband or a demonstrative neckline-to-hem back zipper that accentuated the curve of the back. Still in its infancy, this is a smart, sensual collection with plenty of potential — and challenges, especially with the current economic climate. Let’s hope Mouret can make it work.
January 23, 2008