Ann Demeulemeester: Everyone knows that Ann Demeulemeester likes a bit of rock ’n’ roll, but sometimes she’s able to temper that harder edge with a softer poetic sensibility. With allusions to the sportier side of country living — think falconry and horseback riding — Demeulemeester did just that, and presented a stellar fall collection that was tough, yet romantic.

Demeulemeester used a strict color palette of black, white, chocolate and cognac to chic effect. Military coats and fencing jackets in ponyskin, leather or washed cotton were paired with skinny leather pants or kilts, all sporting multiple buckles and straps. Long-haired shearlings were cut into everything from jackets and vests to coats and scarves, and even extra-large gauntlets were made cozy with the stuff. Chain mail car-wash skirts were more dainty than warrior woman, and vests with metal rings sparkled. And for the girl who is put off by all those straps, Demeulemeester did floaty silk tunics abstractly printed with the nape of a horse’s neck.

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