More than 18,000 spectacular roses wilted in the summer heat along with hundreds of revelers on the sweaty dance floor as Boucheron feted its latest collection of jewelry on Wednesday night. Gucci Group creative director Tom Ford stopped by to inspect the jewels, as did Margherita Missoni, Sheik Majed Al-Sabah and Fendi creative director Silvia Venturini. But it was also a 110th birthday party for Boucheron’s flagship on a prime corner of Place Vendôme, where Boucheron creative director Solange Azagury-Partridge held court. Her rallying cry that fine jewelry shouldn’t be too serious, formal or grand is underscored by the name of the collection: Not Bourgeois. “The idea is to be liberated and free with jewelry, not stash it in a safe,” she explained.

The 60 one-of-a-kind pieces draw on Europe’s rich and sometimes twisted history, from bracelets resembling Elizabethan neck ruffs to a thin choker of rubies: an allusion to aristocrats who would wear red ribbon on their throats to show their sympathy with intimates who had been guillotined. There are more playful pieces, too, including a series of rings based on animals — frogs clutching orbs, a starfish curling a tendril. Another group features human figures, mostly women with long hair, curled into rings, bracelets and pendants. One bracelet is literally an outstretched hand offering a diamond — not a bad birthday present.

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