Cake isn’t quite enough nourishment for the couture crowd, so consider fine jewelry the cherry on top. Parallel to the runway shows in Paris this week is a host of diamond-studded presentations, culminating in the Boucheron bash that will be held on the Place Vendôme tonight.
This story first appeared in the July 9, 2003 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Chanel started things on Monday in spectacular style, showcasing 150 exceptional pieces with a total of 3,500 carats of precious stones. The group, dubbed the Private Collection, includes styles created by Gabrielle Chanel herself in 1932 and new interpretations of the house’s signature motifs such as the camellia, comet, star, sun and moon. Prices start at about $40,000 for a ring, and run up to about $1.85 million for a cascading diamond necklace studded with a big Burmese ruby, and the necklaces are all one-of-a-kind. The jewels, collected in black leather cases, will travel the world to be shown to clients, with new styles added along the way. Up for grabs are an extraordinary camellia-shaped bracelet of 2,352 diamonds that magically changes shape, and a bracelet of dark “peacock” pearls, with glints of blue and red.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior edited its jewelry presentation down to a dramatic new unisex watch style, the D by Dior, an interpretation of a chunky, classic Fifties men’s style aimed mainly at women. Dior jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane kept the design streamlined, with neither numbers nor lines interrupting the face. But there are a multitude of variations, with the most expensive versions, about $13,700 at retail, boasting faces of lapis lazuli or turquoise.
Finally, Brazilian designer Carla Amorim, who is often inspired by nature, introduced dramatic, geometric rings with smoked quartz suspended in mid-air and delicate floral-themed necklaces. In sync with what seems to be a transformer trend in fine jewelry, small leaf-shaped earrings in green quartz can grow in length, or be pruned, with removable links. Prices range from about $1,900 to $10,000. Meanwhile, Amorim has a new jewel of her own in New York: a corner at Bergdorf Goodman opening next month.