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Creative director Bruno Frisoni has a wealth of history to draw on from the house of Roger Vivier. For his recent collection shown during couture, he recreated a few styles of the famous comma heel, which founder Vivier introduced in 1965. Frisoni added a higher version to the fall collection, here in rich jewel-tone suedes, shiny spazzolato leather and a houndstooth calf hair — materials that also showed up elsewhere in the lineup.
Another group combined shiny spazzolato leather with gray flannel in the brand’s Prismick pattern for a high-low look — which, to Frisoni, felt, “kind of like France,” he said. Fur, a fall staple, was also mixed in, used on the vamp of a kitten heel, all over a large duffel bag and on the front of a bootie.
Frisoni’s charm of the season was the pom-pom, inspired by the makeup brushes of his friend and brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange. The motif was worked in various versions throughout, most literally on a pair of satin pumps.
For evening, the designer had Las Vegas glitz and glam on his mind, hence the bejeweled explosion of crystals covering pumps and soft zippered pouch bags.