NEW YORK -- "This season has been the toughest one ever," said Ruth Finley, who, as publisher of the Fashion Calendar, coordinates the show schedules for the New York collections.
It's by far the busiest show week in Finley's 40 years since starting the Fashion Calendar to handle the scheduling.
"It started because the retail stores in New York like Saks and Bergdorf's were complaining about conflicts with their show times, and I saw a need for someone to coordinate the times," Finley said. "I've seen it grow nationally and internationally, and it's never boring. There's always something going on, and I'm the one they all come to get on the schedule."
Ninety firms have either formal shows or informal showings on the eight-day fall fashion week schedule this season, compared with 65 last season, Finley said. She counts 18 designers showing for the first time.
"It's been very difficult getting it all set up," Finley said. "There's been a lot of going back and forth, especially a lot of young designers that decided at the last minute that they needed to have a show."
For the first time, fashion week is eight days, running Wednesday to Wednesday, which Finley said has opened up additional space on the weekend. Last season, Sunday was added to the schedule. This season, Saturday is being added, as well.
Some small firms are having shows or informal modeling sessions on Saturday. They include Marc Jacobs, Sylvia Heisel, Neil Bieff, J. Morgan Puett, Milu, Abraxas, Frank Fleming and Nahayo & Cutupu.
"I think the Bryant Park shows have created a lot of interest in doing shows," Finley said. "It also shows that the economy is improving, and people are optimistic that the money they are spending to put on a show will lead to extra business."
Meanwhile, Finley is already starting to work on next season's schedule. The eight-day and weekend formats are continuing, with the shows set to start on Saturday, Oct. 19, and run through Saturday, Nov. 5.
A grooming moment between @tanfrance and @antoni last night at the The LGBT Community Center Trailblazer Awards honoring Anna Wintour, Ricky Martin and more. See more photos at WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“It was a very surreal feeling. It wasn’t like we were in the studio together coming up with it — it’s more like he discovered it and loved it. I didn’t let myself get my hopes up, but then it happened it was very exciting,” said singer-songwriter @nombe on discovering that @pharrell would be using his song, “Cant Catch Me” on his HBO documentary series “Outpost.” The German-born singer — named Noah MacBeth — talked to WWD about feminism, using art as a platform for political expression and personal style. Read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
This season, denim is going west – in influence. Brands like @fathersdaughterla (pictured here), @tommyhilfiger Jeans, @levis and more are opting for raw, top-stitching styles. (Styled by @thealexbadia; 📷: @ryanplett)
20-year-old British singer @jorjasmith_ made her debut at Coachella last weekend. We caught up with her and talked about her love for Amy Winehouse, working with Kendrick Lamar on the “Black Panther” album and her fashion philosophy. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @katiedaisyla)
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)