NEW YORK — Jil Sander diehards were shopping in full force Friday morning as the brand’s flagship here made its debut.
The 7,000-square-foot store at 11 East 57th Street is an homage to the label’s minimalist aesthetic. The space’s striking limestone facade, which features double-height arched windows, gives way to a sleek, spare white-walled interior with warm golden lighting. Three levels of pale limestone floors, thin nickel silver merchandise displays and frosted glass are subtle but luxe elements used by the architect Michael Gabellini in an effort to emphasize the clothes as opposed to overwhelming them with an overt store design.
Intricate and complex architectural and design features — such as a layered wall that undulates through the space’s three stories, ambient lighting calibrated to depict colors accurately, walls containing an invisible sound system and a radiant floor heating system — are discreet touches serving to further offset the merchandise and shopping experience.
"The space is set up as a frame so the firm materials that exist there can continually be adjusted to complement the collection as it changes and evolves," said Gabellini.
The original facade of the space, which was built in 1900, was restored, according to Gabellini: "We wanted to retain the grandness and glamour of the existing storefront and contrast it with the newness of the inside — yet imbuing it with character to feel intimate and warm. The intention is to think of it as a grand home." This idea is in sharp contrast with the current trend by other retailers to create "megastores," he said.
The women’s collection, including shoes and accessories, fill the first two floors, while men’s is situated on the third. The company plans to install offices and showrooms in the remaining floors atop the store.
Milan Vukmirovic, the brand’s creative director, said the store will finally allow New York customers to see the Jil Sander women’s and men’s collections in their entirety.
Retail prices range from $1,200 to $4,000 for coats, $1,400 to $2,600 for suits, while jackets, trousers and skirts average $500.
The company, a division of Prada Group, declined to give a forecast for first-year store sales. This is the first Jil Sander store in New York, but new stores in Sapporo, Japan and Beverly Hills are currently in development, according to the firm.For the six months ended June 30, Sander reported a loss of $13.4 million on sales of $66.8 million.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)