MILAN — For the first time in its history, Mila Schön will not present a runway show when spring fashion week opens in Milan next week.

The Mariella Burani-controlled brand said it would instead present the collection to buyers through appointments. The shift follows the recent departure of Schön creative director Marc Helmuth. Helmuth took over at Schön last June after its previous design trio, Greg Myler, Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi, went to Byblos. Helmuth designed only two collections for the house.

A company spokeswoman said an in-house creative team designed the spring 2004 line and offered no details on the circumstances surrounding Helmuth’s exit. A replacement has yet to be named. “We just felt that it would be better to skip the runway this season,” the spokeswoman said. “We’ll revisit the idea of runway for next season.”

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