The saying “every rose has its thorn” was the inspiration for Dorothee Schumacher, and her blooms were bold and opulent. Winter white, rich reds, midnight blues, greens and warm ochers gleamed in silks, jacquards, cashmere and Lurex. Cropped and hooded parkas swung in leather and wool and even Neoprene, while cigarette pants and tailored leggings were layered well under tunics and chiffon dresses. As for accessories, fur riding helmets were shown with tailored jackets, and plush stoles were held in place with sparkling brooches.

There was a bit of a Sixties vibe in the poor-boy sweaters, cropped peacoats and shaped pantsuits, but the end result was modern opulence: lush without being lurid.

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