NEW YORK — Quietly and without the buzz their previous gig afforded them, Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, formerly of Trovata, are launching their own contemporary collection, Shipley & Halmos, for spring. Less than a year after leaving that much-feted California-based company, which they cofounded with existing head John Whitledge and Josia Lamberto-Egan, the duo has packed up and moved cross-country, setting up shop in New York. (Interestingly, all the original principals remain shareholders in Trovata.)
In their own words, Shipley & Halmos is "an offering of some clothing & things crafted with hand, health and heart," an explanation printed on their silk labels. However they spin it, it's a shopper-friendly collection of about 17 pieces featuring a slew of pretty day dresses, casual tunics and plenty of men's wear-style shirts paired with preppy high-waisted shorts. Initially, Barneys New York will carry the line exclusively. Both 27, Shipley and Halmos eliminated some of the cute details their former label is known for, but left others in for interest — sexy, extra-deep arm holes on silky tanks, slouchy bows on crisp white shirts and more structured ties attached to a great teal trench. "We wanted to go for something more feminine and mature, to feel out who our girl is," says Shipley. Wholesale prices start at $45 for blouses, $70 for pants, $145 for dresses and $200 for coats.
Although New York Fashion Week is right around the corner, the two decided to bypass the runway for now. "We're in no hurry," says Halmos. "We'd like to get two seasons under our belts before we do that." Indeed, between producing the new collection, including a men's lineup, moving to New York and trying to find a home for not only the business but also themselves, there's been little time for anything else. "We've done everything ourselves," says Shipley. "From setting up phone lines to technical design." Halmos chimes in, "Maybe we'll try to get an intern next season."
But for now, this is a highly personal endeavor for the pair, who have known each other since college. Thus, the decision to use their names instead of coming up with some catchy moniker. "If your name is on the label," explains Shipley, "you have a greater responsibility to the consumer to make sure it's right."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast