During the Thirties, Forties and Fifties, nylon's durability, polyester's UV protection and spandex's stretch were developed. Activewear textiles have been characterized by their performance capabilities — and extremely negative impact on the environment — ever since. Now there's buzz about a new crop of textiles with exceptional properties. Along with a promise to work hand in hand with Mother Nature, mills are developing some of the most comfortable, sanitary performance materials ever. But some feel that the combination of these materials with green processes may not be a match made in heaven.
Not the cannabis you bake into brownies, this industrial-grade fiber has lower psychoactive chemical levels. "There's a major difference between marijuana and hemp," says Barbara Filippone of EnviroTextiles. "It's like jalapeño peppers and bell peppers; one's hot, the other's not." Hemp fabrics are known for their moisture absorption, anti-bacterial properties and ventilation.
EnviroPro: This plant, grown internationally as a companion crop to ward off pests and suppress weeds, lessens dependency on pesticides.
EnviroCon: Fiber-processing plants produce significant quantities of respirable dust contaminated with endotoxins harmful to workers.
Photo: hemp summer cloth at EnviroTextiles.
Soy (Moisture Control)
Manufacturers process the residue of soybeans from tofu production to spin these cashmere-like fibers. There was a time when only vegans, vegetarians and edamame addicts claimed allegiance to the plant, but as Howard Silver, president of Jasco Eco, remarks, "The fashion industry is taking green from hippie to hip." Soy clothing has excellent moisture absorption and transmission, making it more sanitary than cotton, but the fiber is versatile enough to make everything from cashmere-like sweaters to faux fur.
EnviroPro: This process makes use of what's otherwise waste material.
EnviroCon: The majority of genetically modified crops are soy, and the debate on their environmental impact has yet to be resolved.
Photo: Soysilk at Southwest Trading Co.
This cellulose fiber comes from refined bamboo pulp made of the plant's stems and leaves. "A fabrication isn't marketable just because it's 'green' or 'sustainable,'" says Steve Usdan, president of Natural Earth-Safe Textiles. "Function leads form, and form leads green." True to this mantra, bamboo fabrics, which are soft and inhibit the growth of bacteria, are perfect for yoga, aerobics and running activewear.
"You start one way as a baby, but why shouldn't you be able to choose your own path as opposed to culturally people telling you which way to go?" - Thom Browne at his men's spring 2018 show, where he celebrated gender fluidity. #pfw #wwdmens (📷: @delphineachard)
"I think that all anyone really wants in life is to have people understand us for who we actually are, despite everything," says Ruth Negga. The actress talks "Preachers" season 2 and more on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: Dan Doperalski)