Seeing the Light – Phoebe Philo, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Lars Nilsson
Phoebe Philo’s Chloé collection was effortlessly sexy…Christian Lacroix’s line had a light spirit…Jean Paul Gaultier’s Hermès was luxuriously simple…and Lars Nilsson did featherweight dresses for Nina Ricci.
Chloé: Phoebe Philo left her audience wholeheartedly impressed on Saturday, dousing any doubts about her formidable talent. While there may have been an occasional clunker in her first few shows at Chloé, season by season, those occurrences have become more rare. Philo is ever more articulately describing the way her generation wants to dress — whether it’s Parisian “It” girl Lou Doillon or Hollywood’s Kirsten Dunst — with a signature look that is sexiness au naturel.
For spring, that meant lots of cottony flou, in the form of eyelet skirts and angelic dresses that fell loose on the body, as well as organic takes on men’s wear. When Philo designs a tuxedo shirt, it’s a delicate affair done in gauze with neat, flattened ruffles. When she does seersucker, as in a slim seersucker suit or a trim blazer, it doesn’t look dorky, but completely cool — the kind of cool exuded by a girl who never seems to try.
There’s an effortlessness to all of Philo’s clothes, a gentle tailoring and casual attitude that come across as anything but forced. Take, for example, drop-dead fabulous after-dark looks like a loose sky-blue dress bordered in indigo or a rose silk halter with jeweled straps worn with a wisp of a cream skirt. These are the clothes to love, to cherish and to wear and wear and wear until they can be worn no more. This collection brought Philo’s Chloé girl into sharp focus — and she’s a real knockout.
Christian Lacroix: Christian Lacroix christened his spring collection “Ebloui,” promising it would appear “as if blinded by the light.” Setting the mood, assorted chandeliers hung in the entrance to the Ecole des Beaux Arts, while numerous huge white lanterns illuminated the show space inside. The models emerged from a whitewashed backdrop indicative of a sun-drenched shipwreck, and meandered about between the seats arranged in curved configurations.
The clothes did indeed dazzle with their lightness of spirit and because of Lacroix’s ever-lightening touch. In recent seasons, he has set out to deliver his unique sense of romantic frivolity while making his ready-to-wear just that — more approachable and pertinent for times other than the grand event. That said, who better to revel in the feminine mood du jour, while showing the trendies a thing or two about the glories of decoration? Throughout, Lacroix offered plenty: a black bow tied in the back of a dreamy lace-and-chiffon dress, otherwise beribboned in pink; a mélange of laces and patterned silks for a patchwork coat; playful yarn embroidery and colored stones for a simple micro-shift.
Steve Aoki held a presentation, a runway show and outdoor concert for his men's line Dim Mak. Here's a look from his spring 2018 collection, which was titled "Paradise Found." #wwdfashion #wwdmens (📷: George Chinsee)
"It's really hard sometimes. I think I have a reputation for being really tough and aggressive and pushy but I really am a very shy person who wants to be liked, and that's the conflict constantly. There's something that takes hold - I want people to like me, I don't want to be mean - but if I see something that just cries out to be answered, I go for it," says renowned NBC News correspondent Andrea Mitchell. (📷: @axeldupeux)