Balenciaga: Designing well for a storied house means respecting the past and forging into the future — a balancing act at which Nicolas Ghesquière excels. Referencing the architectural shapes of founding couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, he spun them forward into a collection that is sartorial, modern — and diverse. “The tailoring is graphic and construction compact,” Ghesquière said. Sharply cut jackets — some in thick linens — looked rich, as did an ottoman silk coat in pale green. Riffing on a subtle Japanese theme, there were high, kimono collars and gleaming metallic samurai sandals. There were also screen-printed T-shirts and sturdy denim jeans and jackets. Although still in its infancy (it launched in 2004), Balenciaga men’s wear is building toward a complete and more accessible wardrobe.

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