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Shiseido Gears Up for Fall

Shiseido is planning to add juice to its fall business with a cocktail of skin care and color cosmetics introductions.

NEW YORK — Shiseido is planning to add juice to its fall business with a cocktail of skin care and color cosmetics introductions.

The brand, which is available in about 900 doors in the U.S., has seen continuous growth during the past year, said Heidi Manheimer, president of U.S. operations for Shiseido Cosmetics (America) Ltd. Year-to-date, Shiseido’s business is up 12.6 percent overall, with skin care up 14.5 percent and color cosmetics up 8.3 percent, Manheimer said, citing the brightening and men’s categories as two that have double-digit growth, in part due to a building door count.

Two of the company’s key products for the upcoming fall season are Bio-Performance Super Exfoliating Discs, $64 for eight discs, and Bio-Performing Refining Essence, $74 for 50 ml., said Manheimer. Both will be launched in September.

While microdermabrasion in skin care is not a new idea, Manheimer pointed out that Shiseido waited until it could find technology that delivers results with natural and nonabrasive ingredients. Given the size of the market, it was an easy decision: “Exfoliating systems grew 46 percent in 2005, amounting to more than $12 million in retail sales,” said Manheimer, citing NPD Beauty statistics. “It’s a quickly growing category, and one which offers Shiseido a great deal of opportunity.”

The exfoliating discs — designed to be used once a week after skin is cleansed — are powered by the proprietary Bio-Exfoliderm cocktail, which combines brewer’s yeast extract, TMG and rice bran to break down the proteins that bind old cells to the skin’s surface and polish the skin, she said. One side of the disc is textured to aid in the exfoliation process, while the second side is smooth to help refine skin. To get the word out to consumers, Shiseido plans to distribute upward of 150,000 samples in-store, said Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler, vice president of marketing.

Bio-Performing Essence, which can be used in tandem with the discs or alone, is a serum that uses the proprietary Bio-Regenerine Technology — a mix of Bio-Energy Infuser, said to help increase skin’s vitality; Super Plant Bio-Exfoliant, designed to break down proteins that bind old cells to the skin’s surface, and Rose Apple Leaf Extract, which is said to help prevent the occurrence of environmentally induced skin damage.

This story first appeared in the June 23, 2006 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

National advertising supporting the exfoliating discs and the essence will break in October fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, said Yamagishi-Dressler.

This fall, Shiseido will also introduce White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream, a $50 cream said to clarify and moisturize skin. Citing NPD Beauty data that calls brightening the number-one growth opportunity in beauty for 2006, Manheimer further noted that the category as a whole did $40.4 million at retail in 2005, up 18 percent from 2004. Shiseido accounts for about 9 percent of those sales, said Manheimer, adding that Shiseido entered the category in 1917 with Shiseido Whitening Cucumber. The new entry uses a mix of vitamin C to fade existing dark spots, the proprietary Spot Deacti-Complex to inhibit melanin production and prevent future age spots, AE Complex to help the ingredients penetrate the skin and plant fibers to seal in ingredients, said Manheimer.

Manheimer said the company sees continued opportunity in the men’s market, which Shiseido launched in limited distribution in March 2005. The line, now in 515 doors in the U.S., will gain a shaving cream in September. The $22, 100-ml. formula includes the proprietary Damage Defense Complex, an ingredient said to strengthen the skin’s protective barrier; bio-hyaluronic acid, intended to moisturize, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, said to help prevent razor burn.

On the color side, Shiseido will launch Dual Balancing Foundation in August. “Foundation is the number-one makeup category in the market and, according to NPD, represented 25 percent of total market color sales in 2005,” said Manheimer. Ten shades of foundation will be offered, each retailing for $35. They will be complemented by concealer sticks in three shades, each retailing for $25. Color creator Tom Pecheux has also created a fall color collection that will also be released in August.

The cosmetics will gain a new face this fall, as well. Patricia Schmid, the Swiss model who was discovered by photographer Mario Testino and Pecheux, will appear in Shiseido’s makeup imagery. National print advertising for color cosmetics is slated to begin in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines.

While neither of the executives would comment on sales projections, industry sources estimated that together, the new products could add at least $12 million to Shiseido’s top line in the U.S. in their first year on counter, with the lion’s share to come from the exfoliating discs, the foundation and the color cosmetics collection. As well, sources estimated that Shiseido would spend at least $4 million on advertising and promotional efforts in the second half of 2006 to support these launches.