After months of back-and-forth, the fashion show calendar battle heated up again Wednesday when France’s Chambre Syndicale said its members had voted unanimously to stick to its planned dates for Paris Fashion Weeks in 2013 and 2014. The proposed dates thwart weeks of efforts by organizers in New York, Milan and London to reach agreement on the show schedule.
The slotted Paris dates are as follows: Feb. 26 to March 6 and Sept. 24 to Oct. 2 in 2013, and Feb. 25 to March 5 and Sept. 23 to Oct. 1 in 2014.
Hermès deputy managing director Guillaume de Seynes presided over the board meeting where the vote took place.
The Paris schedule would clash with the second-Thursday ruling proposed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America for both the February and September show weeks in 2013 and 2014.
The deal hinged on two conditions set by Italy’s chamber: First, New York would have to shed its last day, to allow London an extra day to present its men’s wear collections, and, second, Paris would have to agree with the schedule.
The CFDA is subsequently said to have sent a letter to Italy’s chamber agreeing to move its dates for September 2012 shows to Sept. 6 to 13 to avoid clashing with Milan, and to open on the second Thursday in September 2013 and 2014. But it rejected Italy’s demand to eliminate the second Thursday of New York Fashion Week — a day when Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein Collection are among the headliners. A final deal was expected to be reached in January.
Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, said that he recently wrote “to everyone” saying that the Chambre Syndicale had not been involved in any of the discussions and that no decisions would be made regarding Paris show dates before Wednesday’s board meeting.
“It was perfectly open and clear and very obvious that our members could not accept this.…We fall at the end of the calendar. All of the member houses agreed that this would make them very late in taking orders, which in turn would be penalizing for deliveries. It’s an industrial reason: you are a manufacturer, you need your orders early,” said Grumbach.
“Who wants to be penalized? It doesn’t make sense. We have had lots of meetings about pushing Paris show dates earlier as many brands really want that,” he continued, adding that he plans to send a letter explaining the decision to the CFDA’s von Furstenberg.
“Many of our members come from abroad, we have to be very careful about our movements,” Grumbach said.
Von Furstenberg said that she was surprised by Paris’ decision.
“I don’t understand why Paris completely and totally just ignored what all of us have worked so hard on,” she said. “I am speechless.
“I just e-mailed [Grumbach] and said that I was completely in shock,” she added.
A spokesperson from the British Fashion Council said, “This is a disappointing response when all other parties had been trying to work together to find a resolution that works for all.”
CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb said, “Right now, our plan is to move forward based on the compromise that we accepted with Milan and London, and we don’t understand why Paris is not agreeing and we’re confused by it. It doesn’t make any sense to us. We would hope that Milan would stick to their word independent of what Paris thinks.”
It looks more likely, though, that the Italian fashion capital will align itself with its French counterpart.
Reached on Wednesday, Mario Boselli, head of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, did not comment on the Paris decision.
“I am not critical and I don’t want to judge Paris’ decision,” Boselli said. “One thing is sure:it’s unthinkable for Milan and Paris to overlap. We were very clear, we tried to find a solution, but we didn’t succeed. We were going to move if Paris was also moving. As Paris is not moving, we won’t either.
“Perhaps the only way out would be for the Americans to reduce their fashion week to seven days, as nine days is too long, and start a couple of days after Labor Day,” Boselli added.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion