After months of back-and-forth, the fashion show calendar battle heated up again Wednesday when France’s Chambre Syndicale said its members had voted unanimously to stick to its planned dates for Paris Fashion Weeks in 2013 and 2014. The proposed dates thwart weeks of efforts by organizers in New York, Milan and London to reach agreement on the show schedule.
The slotted Paris dates are as follows: Feb. 26 to March 6 and Sept. 24 to Oct. 2 in 2013, and Feb. 25 to March 5 and Sept. 23 to Oct. 1 in 2014.
Hermès deputy managing director Guillaume de Seynes presided over the board meeting where the vote took place.
The Paris schedule would clash with the second-Thursday ruling proposed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America for both the February and September show weeks in 2013 and 2014.
The deal hinged on two conditions set by Italy’s chamber: First, New York would have to shed its last day, to allow London an extra day to present its men’s wear collections, and, second, Paris would have to agree with the schedule.
The CFDA is subsequently said to have sent a letter to Italy’s chamber agreeing to move its dates for September 2012 shows to Sept. 6 to 13 to avoid clashing with Milan, and to open on the second Thursday in September 2013 and 2014. But it rejected Italy’s demand to eliminate the second Thursday of New York Fashion Week — a day when Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein Collection are among the headliners. A final deal was expected to be reached in January.
Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, said that he recently wrote “to everyone” saying that the Chambre Syndicale had not been involved in any of the discussions and that no decisions would be made regarding Paris show dates before Wednesday’s board meeting.
“It was perfectly open and clear and very obvious that our members could not accept this.…We fall at the end of the calendar. All of the member houses agreed that this would make them very late in taking orders, which in turn would be penalizing for deliveries. It’s an industrial reason: you are a manufacturer, you need your orders early,” said Grumbach.
“Who wants to be penalized? It doesn’t make sense. We have had lots of meetings about pushing Paris show dates earlier as many brands really want that,” he continued, adding that he plans to send a letter explaining the decision to the CFDA’s von Furstenberg.
“Many of our members come from abroad, we have to be very careful about our movements,” Grumbach said.
Von Furstenberg said that she was surprised by Paris’ decision.
“I don’t understand why Paris completely and totally just ignored what all of us have worked so hard on,” she said. “I am speechless.
“I just e-mailed [Grumbach] and said that I was completely in shock,” she added.
A spokesperson from the British Fashion Council said, “This is a disappointing response when all other parties had been trying to work together to find a resolution that works for all.”
CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb said, “Right now, our plan is to move forward based on the compromise that we accepted with Milan and London, and we don’t understand why Paris is not agreeing and we’re confused by it. It doesn’t make any sense to us. We would hope that Milan would stick to their word independent of what Paris thinks.”
It looks more likely, though, that the Italian fashion capital will align itself with its French counterpart.
Reached on Wednesday, Mario Boselli, head of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, did not comment on the Paris decision.
“I am not critical and I don’t want to judge Paris’ decision,” Boselli said. “One thing is sure:it’s unthinkable for Milan and Paris to overlap. We were very clear, we tried to find a solution, but we didn’t succeed. We were going to move if Paris was also moving. As Paris is not moving, we won’t either.
“Perhaps the only way out would be for the Americans to reduce their fashion week to seven days, as nine days is too long, and start a couple of days after Labor Day,” Boselli added.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)