MADRID — The wave of femininity that washed over the spring season was not lost on the biannual apparel fair, known as SIMM, held here in September.
Key trends at the SIMM-sponsored runway presentations, Pasarela Cibeles, were superfeminine dresses and softer edges overall; shirring and pleats; knee-hovering lengths; swing skirts; the Sixties and sleeveless shifts; incongruous fabric combos; a palette of black-for-day/white-for-night, in some cases, and bright lollipop shades or powdered neutrals such as putty, taupe, mocha and cinnamon. Giant feed bags and high-heel sandals with wraparound ankle straps on platform bottoms were among the dominant accessories.
Veteran exhibitor Elisa Cortés cited "more [new] clients than usual, particularly from Mexico and Chile." Skirts with black-and-white botanical motifs and colorful, patterned sundresses sold better than pants "because femininity is a big trend."
Cortés' 16-year-old eponymous label is distributed through 120 domestic points of sale and three company-owned and franchised stores, in Seville, Granada and Puerto de Santa Maria in Spain's sherry region, where the firm is based. In addition, 55 percent of Cortés' revenue is generated by export markets, and she has a network of agents, mainly in the U.K., Ireland, the Netherlands and Germany.
"We had a good show with positive reaction from local multibrand stores, but traffic was soft," said Yolanda Moreno Ruiz of shirt maker Mirto, based here. She reported visits from Hong Kong and South Korean retailers, but, in general, few foreigners.
Narrow, feminine silhouettes with embroideries, rendered in dress fabrics such as shantung, were "taking off," she said. Hot colors for spring were yellow, purple, citrus, grass green and turquoise.
Mirto produces 300,000 men's shirts each season and 30,000 for the four-year-old women's line, which wholesales from 40 euros, or $50 at current exchange, to 60 euros, or $75. The U.S. remains a premier market and Mexico is an up-and-comer.
Held in six halls of the Juan Carlos I fairgrounds here, SIMM is the second- largest apparel show in Europe, after Düsseldorf's CPD. According to IFEMA, the event's organizer, vendors totaled 1,009 — an increase of 49, or about 5 percent, over last year. They spread over 362,000 square feet, an additional 3.4 percent of floor space.Traffic was up 3.6 percent over the previous year, to 26,566. Ten percent were foreigners, similar to the count in September 2004, mainly from Portugal, Italy, France, Mexico, Turkey and the U.K.
SIMM's dates conflicted with major Paris trade events, but director Pola Iglesias said she was "content" with the fair's results. Asked how the July edition of Bread & Butter Barcelona affected the Madrid show, she said 40 vendors from the Barcelona region had dropped out. She called B&BB "a happening, but it doesn't threaten Madrid."
Highlights from Pasarela Cibeles, which featured 27 designers and 22 shows, included:
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada's toned-down silhouettes, which some sources said was a result of the November opening of the brand's first U.S. store, on New York's Wooster Street. Dresses and wide-bottomed pants featured bubble-like polkadots, multicolored waist treatments and constellation motifs; shorts and swimwear came in spirited butterfly prints, and the colors, signature Agatha, were orange, lemon and lime, turquoise, fuchsia, berry and pink.
José Miró's silky, body-skimming dresses with asymmetric treatments and lacing (some of the week's best); and a skinny denim series with crisp white cotton shirts and tanks. The Mallorcan designer opened his first store, a two-level location in startling Mediterranean blue, last May in his hometown of Palma de Mallorca.
Ailanto's sundresses in cotton voile with lace, floral and crocheted appliqués, and bold awning stripes for longer-length dresses and separates, both with Western-style canvas boots by Ursula Mascaró for Ailanto. The Barcelona label is helmed by identical twin brothers Iñaki, the designer, and Aitor Muñoz.
Roberto Torretta's strapless and halter-style dresses in satin and silk taffeta, real clothes for real women, with provocative décolleté; natural waists, and below-the-knee lengths. Color focused on black, wild mustard, deep ink blue and white; the only print was done in grape green.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye