Men’s wear designer Sissi Goetze said her starting point is always boys’ wear. Indeed, her pared-down silhouettes consciously play with a sense of innocence — and awkwardness. Her double-sleeve shirts and pants (think: slim Bermudas over narrow cuffed trousers) were back for fall, playing a starring role in this presentation. The treatment was carried over to jackets, with the double detail skimming the top of oversize patch pockets on parkas and lapel-less jackets. Monochrome looks stood out in unexpected fabrics like wool cloque and wool crepe, the latter worked in the palest blue-gray for a shirt, tie, matching pants and little ear-flap cap. Another casual standout was the blue-gray flannel suit, its short, drop-shouldered tailored jacket as relaxed as a shirt.

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