Viktor & Rolf: Breathtaking. Yes, the underlying idea was a bedtime story revealed in fantastical bedding-cum-headgear. And yes, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren treated their guests to an enchanting performance by Tori Amos. But the heart and soul of their fall Viktor & Rolf collection was fashion, period. Fashion with the proverbial capital “F,” that is — the kind we all long for when boarding the plane, the kind that fuels the industry, the kind only a very few designers can deliver. This show was a joy to watch, filled with clothes that should be a joy, as well, for retailers to sell and for women to wear.
The theme sprung from the designers’ desire to work with Amos and to stage a show antithetical to fall’s fragrance-launching extravaganza. “After last season, we saw the need to do something intimate, private,” Horsting said. “The idea was a bedtime story because bed is the ultimate safe place. Good things happen in bed. You rest, heal, make love.”
Touché. But it takes rare multitiered talent to translate touchy-feely nighty-night into a stunningly chic fashion event. Horsting and Snoeren spun the fittings of a lady’s bedchamber, all lacy, frilled, down-filled and quilted, the trance-inducing romance of Amos’ crimped red locks and a wealth of amazing tailoring into a magnificent moment. A comforter’s stitching emerged in quilting on a skirt, and the comforter itself in a dreamy ingenue bridal gown, with embroidered red script radiating “I love you.” Strands of pearls made their way from jewel box to shoes, and a bedside rose became the lone color on an alluring corseted gown.
But make no mistake. The real brilliance here was the transformation of an out-there theme into a foil for beautiful, remarkably wearable clothes. So, while some girls were done up with the mood-setting pillow accoutrement, others wore gorgeous shirts with varying degrees of frills, always with simple black pants. And there were fabulous coats, parkas, suits, a back-draped trench. (Ditto, by the way, the song Amos wrote just for the occasion. It may have been based on the Book of Solomon, but she managed to work in the line, “I need this potion, this flower bomb.”) It all played like the kind of dream you don’t want to end. Only waking up is even better, because then you can get dressed.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion