NEW YORK — The runway shows might be in full swing, but accessories designers and houses have also been making statements about town.
It began with an event celebrating the launch of Eileen Shields shoes in the East Village at the Issue Project Room. Shields, who designed for Donna Karan and was instrumental in the launch of DKNY Footwear, also plans to open a store in her native Dublin in July, which will be a combination shoe store and art gallery. Shields served cosmos and chocolates to her guests as she offered wholesale prices to buyers and anyone else wanting to place an order. It was truly a family affair, as Shields’ husband, Mark Orange, a curator at the Spencer Brownstone Art Gallery, hung shoes art-gallery-style on the walls with red strings, and her brother Kevin Shields, who wrote the music for “Lost in Translation,” provided the tunes. Judging from the parade of little ones at the party (new mom Shields encouraged her guests with kids to bring them) perhaps a children’s line is not so far off.
Over at Henri Bendel, Brazilian designer Costanza Basto arrived to show her latest collection, which included boots this time around. “In Brazil, it is usually too hot for boots,” Basto said. “But in New York, they are a must-have.” Costanza Basto, of course, are still the only shoes sold at Bendel’s.
Italian shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti also exploited boots for fall. Known for his outrageously sexy sandals, this time Zanotti worked boots in all possible styles, from brightly dyed crocodile to mink-lined silk satin and “corseted” cutout suedes. And, as he does every season, he adorned lasts with shiny brass enamel panther heads and rhinestoned crocodiles.
Meanwhile, at Delman, the news for fall is color, color and more color — in both suedes and patent, while looks ranged from tasseled loafers and high boots to revamped vintage Delman styles done for Dior. At Hollywould, its fall 2004 shoe and bag collection was inspired by Hitchcock’s “To Catch a Thief.” Details included miniature handcuffs, oversized rhinestone jewels and laser-cut ruffles.
Celebrating the Year of the Monkey, Rafe Totengco unveiled his collection in his store replete with hanging lanterns and Asian cocktails. He showed his signature matching bags and shoes in great tweeds and suedes as well as leather and patent. The mauve, purple and green color palette make this a collection to go ape over.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast