Sophisticated Ideas – Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Lanvin, John Galliano
Yves Saint Laurent: Talk about pressure. After his whirlwind ascent, the critical trashing of his first collection and its subsequent embrace by the Hollywood set, Stefano Pilati must have felt the weight of the world going into the...
Yves Saint Laurent: Talk about pressure. After his whirlwind ascent, the critical trashing of his first collection and its subsequent embrace by the Hollywood set, Stefano Pilati must have felt the weight of the world going into the fall season. He no doubt still glimpses the imposing shadows cast by Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, and knows that, in fashion, one’s window for making an impact is limited. Yet unlike at Gucci, Ford’s grip on the Saint Laurent legacy is hardly ironclad and in just one season has loosened considerably, leaving Pilati freer to find his way through the founder’s heritage.
The collection Pilati showed on Sunday night to close the fall season showed vast improvement over his dotty debut. Though still working within the same house mandate — specifically an emphasis on day clothes — he proceeded confidently, with a better grasp of the subtleties of cut and flourish that make clothes realistic. So basta the dots, and welcome to a more subdued, sophisticated lineup. He opened with a nod to the season’s sobriety — a black suit with the sleeve of the moment, cut short over filmy sleeves. But this was merely an introduction to a group of newly spun classics, such as a sleek tweed suit finished with a bow or a gray pullover belted over slim black pants. The looks were waist-conscious and often lean as he confined volume mostly to deep flounces banding slim skirts.
Unfortunately, however, Pilati just couldn’t leave well enough alone — literally. Then, complications set in as he got bogged down in tricky cuts, countless ball buttons and the unfortunate evolution of those sorry spring skirts — no longer Proustian, but still too much pouf. Nevertheless, Pilati performed gamely in a tough spot, though whether he is ultimately up to managing the Saint Laurent legacy remains to be seen.
Valentino: “I want my clothes to walk the streets,” read Valentino’s show notes. Those are interesting words from the man who dresses the world’s most pampered set. Just how many of Val’s sexy, glamour-loving gals might actually be pounding the pavement remains to be seen. But when it comes to fashion, it’s really the thought that counts.There’s nothing more practical for stepping out than pants. Or so thought the designer, who sent out an endless stream of long lean versions in corduroy, suede and wool for day and satin for evening. However, this is the world of Valentino, where “jeans” are cut in lipstick-red suede and topped with a black silk blouse and knitted fur vest. Aside from one vulgar aberration — a bolero of beast-like fur sleeves knotted together with see-through lace — capes, riding coats and sharply tailored, nipped jackets were mostly a success.
But for all the luxed-up tomboyish swagger of the show’s pant-fest, the collection didn’t leave its ladylike base — who might not have mile-long legs — completely wanting. He proclaimed the shirtdress a must-have for day and evening. The best was a prim high-necked affair in black chiffon and lace. Evening brought options — running from the classic red strapless to a plain silk jersey embellished only with long lace cuffs. And, in the end, practicality is a relative term. If a girl’s schedule is rife with gala events, a closetful of gowns can be a workaday necessity.
Lanvin: A keen sense of expectation hung in the air before Alber Elbaz’s Lanvin show on Sunday, and with good reason. Over the past few seasons, Elbaz’s massively chic collections have drawn in fans and converts at exponential rates and have received lavish editorial attention. Indie celebrities, including Sofia Coppola, Chloë Sevigny and Natalie Portman, have all endorsed the brand with their cool. And Elbaz has quadrupled ready-to-wear and accessories sales since signing on in 2002, despite the constraints he endures at a house house with financial trouble. It’s all added up to buzz — major buzz — and major expectations.
This season, under the pressure to thrill once again, Elbaz took an interesting — and smart — turn, backing away from some of the artsiness and unfinished hems that he’s become known for in favor of a more polished approach. The look smacked of both undeniable chic and sound salabilty, with Elbaz’s once-pleasing awkwardness glossed up into a sleek affair. Jackets were nipped in at the waist whether paired with full skirts or those that slightly belled. Coats, while more relaxed, were still very clean cut. Meanwhile, serious eveningwear — and there was lots of it — came in a wide range. The most daring was his simplest, a gorgeous draped gown in gym suit-gray jersey done up with a loopy black bow at the bodice. The most va-va-voom were fitted snug and bustling with tiered tulle.It’s Alber’s moment alright, and he’s trained his whopping talent on making that sweet moment last.
John Galliano: At some point or other, the allure of Hollywood has fascinated nearly every working designer in the field. This season, John Galliano did his own over-the-top send-up of movieland, staging his production in a klieg-light-filled set on the outskirts of town. Against a photomontage backdrop of Cecil B. DeMille types doing their thing, Galliano served up a relatively low-key collection that, while it didn’t have much to do with the silver screen, was packed with clothes built just for Galliano-loving divas. There was a royal blue leather trench with an oversized collar. There were zingy black-and-white striped sweaters or Dietrich-esque baggy blazers worn with wide-legged pants.
Not too surprisingly, Galliano took the opportunity to show some major gowns. He didn’t go in for your basic hourglass gown homage, instead sending out a variety of options to suit every character from ingénue to slightly eccentric sexpot. For the long-lashed innocent was his drop-waisted dress in peach gauze scattered with a flock of colorful butterflies. For the femme fatale, a coat in gold velvet, with a grand dimpled collar and bordered with thick fur trim or a fuchsia gown splashed with graphic flowers.
None of it, however, could live up to Galliano’s own ring-ding of a runway bow, which was accompanied not only by the usual swelling music and flashing lights, but by fireworks, leaping flames, bursts of steam and a gusting fake wind that sent his cowboy hat tumbling back from whence he came. A performance worthy of Cecil B. himself.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)