From flowing dresses to elegant wrap numbers, fall collections were characterized by a light-handed glamour, as designers favored young, fresh looks.
Bill Blass: Morning, noon and night. That's when the Bill Blass customer relies on the label, and designer Michael Vollbracht is well aware of this. With fall, he showed just how far the collection has evolved since he took over — despite some earlier bumpy turns along the way. These were real clothes, a lot of them very pretty and exactly what his lady wants. She moves through her day in polished suits — here, a fine camel cashmere version — and luxe outerwear, often embroidered and sometimes with a touch of fur trim. Evening allowed Vollbracht to turn up the drama a notch with sparkly bits and frothy pieces. The flowing red chiffon siren dress certainly grabbed attention with its plunging neckline, but so did the charming beaded gray cocktail number topped with a shearling coat. There may have been no major fireworks, but this season Vollbracht seems more comfortable in upholding the Blass tradition.
Monique Lhuillier: Monique Lhuillier is, first and foremost, committed to making her lady look lovely. And she succeeded for fall with gracefully cut jackets, cocktail dresses, dramatic evening gowns and chic coats. Her bordeaux tweed swingy overcoat with embroidered collar and pockets was a standout along with some of the lightest, prettiest little shrugs in town. The shrugs came out in tulle, taffeta or fur, worn over balloon cocktail dresses or trumpet ballgowns. And all of those gray Chantillly lace looks had a light-handed glamour, such as the sheath with its flaring hemline and the gown with a layered tulle skirt. But given the allure of those airy lace and taffeta looks, one wonders why Lhuillier weighed down the collection with so many of those wallpaper and upholstery fabrics.
Behnaz Sarafpour: "I wanted to do a collection inspired by traditional American sportswear, which is really based in men's wear," Behnaz Sarafpour said post-show. But as ambitious and successful a young woman as Sarafpour is, she'd never don a man's suit to prove it. In fact, she seems to draw power from her unapologetic girlishness. Through that archfemininity, the designer filtered all manner of stuffy sartorial conventions — the trenchcoat, banker gray flannel, the bow tie — and out came a delightful set of clothes that felt young and fresh. The trench morphed into an elegant black wrap dress, while the gray flannel turned into a swingy, pleated kilt or a high-necked coat, both judiciously appliquéd with black lace. Masculine tartans became much less so in silk, cut into a bow-blouse or the cap-sleeved top of a slim dress. Evening, a Sarafpour mainstay, went two ways — low-key in black-and-white dresses that continued a thread from her resort collection, and then glamorous with jeweled necklines. After all, it's a girl's prerogative to change her mind.Luca Luca: Tigers and butterflies and bees, oh my. Color Luca Orlandi a bit dazed and confused, because his vision at Luca Luca lacked the focus he showed in the past. It seemed the designer didn't know which way he wanted to go — girly, with the bouncy butterfly-embroidered frock, or sexy, à la the gold-and-black-striped taffeta dress and sequined leopard-print skirt, or cashmere casual, as in a simple long-sleeved polo. It all felt out of sorts alongside the tamer and more languid trappings sent down the runway. Still, Orlandi continued to mine the ladylike ease he's toyed with before, showing enough to satisfy Luca Luca's social set. Cases in point: the gala-bound silk lamé gowns and effortless wardrobe basics, including wool knit skirts, sleek crepe pantsuits and rich astrakhan coats.
"'Dynasty' is all about gowns, the diamonds and the scandal, so it's a bit like the fashion industry. When we come to Cannes it's all about the red carpet dresses too, so it all fit really well," said designer @philippplein78 on the theme of his high-glamour resort 2019 show at his mansion in Cannes. #wwdfashion #cannes (📷: @zefashioninsider)
"I think Spike is such a brilliant director because he holds up a mirror to society and reflects these issues, yet he doesn't shove it down your throat, he doesn't tell you what to think," says @lauraharrier on her latest film @Blackkklansman. Harrier was at the Cannes Film Festival – for the very first time – with @officialspikelee. #wwdeye #cannes (📷: @zefashioninsider)
“I would think to myself, Are you happy? Yes, I’m wildly happy. I go to this studio every day and, in my inside voices, I’m giggling; I’m singing. Yes, it’s a lot of work, it’s a [huge] volume of material. It wouldn’t be for everybody. But I was very happy,” said soap opera star @therealsusanlucci of checking in throughout the years with her career trajectory. Lucci spoke to WWD about her decades-long career, love for pilates, motherhood and her QVC activewear line. Read Bridget Foley’s full piece on Lucci on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @celestesloman)
@balmain has taken a stand at the #cannes Film Festival, dressing 16 actresses at a press call for the project “Noire N’est Pas Mon Metier,” or “Black Is Not My Profession.” The multimedia project includes a book, photo exhibit and documentary, which aims to expose discrimination in the French and American entertainment industries. “The moment I was asked to participate, I knew it was right for me, and for this brand, to form a part of this moment,” Balmain creative director @olivier_rousteing told WWD. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
"I always feel curious and I feel like there's more to learn. But I think being relevant, feeling relevant, I personally always feel that there's just so much more to know. And maybe that's the key.” — @themarcjacobs #wwdsummits #wwdbeauty (📷: @patrickmacleodphoto )
“The most amazing thing about her is that, regardless of all the things that have happened to her, her spirit is so undaunted by all of it. She is the most cheerful person you will ever meet. She doesn’t see problems, she only sees solutions,” said @ajanaomi_king of activist Ifrah Ahmed, who she plays in a new film “A Girl from Mogadishu.” WWD caught up with King at Cannes — Head to WWD.com to read more about her new role, personal style and how she uses social media for causes like Time’s Up and Black Lives Matter #wwdeye
WWD asked a number designers to share their thoughts on what Meghan Markle’s wedding gown will look like this Saturday. Here, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli sketches his look. #wwdfashion #royalwedding #meghanmarkle