From flowing dresses to elegant wrap numbers, fall collections were characterized by a light-handed glamour, as designers favored young, fresh looks.
Bill Blass: Morning, noon and night. That's when the Bill Blass customer relies on the label, and designer Michael Vollbracht is well aware of this. With fall, he showed just how far the collection has evolved since he took over — despite some earlier bumpy turns along the way. These were real clothes, a lot of them very pretty and exactly what his lady wants. She moves through her day in polished suits — here, a fine camel cashmere version — and luxe outerwear, often embroidered and sometimes with a touch of fur trim. Evening allowed Vollbracht to turn up the drama a notch with sparkly bits and frothy pieces. The flowing red chiffon siren dress certainly grabbed attention with its plunging neckline, but so did the charming beaded gray cocktail number topped with a shearling coat. There may have been no major fireworks, but this season Vollbracht seems more comfortable in upholding the Blass tradition.
Monique Lhuillier: Monique Lhuillier is, first and foremost, committed to making her lady look lovely. And she succeeded for fall with gracefully cut jackets, cocktail dresses, dramatic evening gowns and chic coats. Her bordeaux tweed swingy overcoat with embroidered collar and pockets was a standout along with some of the lightest, prettiest little shrugs in town. The shrugs came out in tulle, taffeta or fur, worn over balloon cocktail dresses or trumpet ballgowns. And all of those gray Chantillly lace looks had a light-handed glamour, such as the sheath with its flaring hemline and the gown with a layered tulle skirt. But given the allure of those airy lace and taffeta looks, one wonders why Lhuillier weighed down the collection with so many of those wallpaper and upholstery fabrics.
Behnaz Sarafpour: "I wanted to do a collection inspired by traditional American sportswear, which is really based in men's wear," Behnaz Sarafpour said post-show. But as ambitious and successful a young woman as Sarafpour is, she'd never don a man's suit to prove it. In fact, she seems to draw power from her unapologetic girlishness. Through that archfemininity, the designer filtered all manner of stuffy sartorial conventions — the trenchcoat, banker gray flannel, the bow tie — and out came a delightful set of clothes that felt young and fresh. The trench morphed into an elegant black wrap dress, while the gray flannel turned into a swingy, pleated kilt or a high-necked coat, both judiciously appliquéd with black lace. Masculine tartans became much less so in silk, cut into a bow-blouse or the cap-sleeved top of a slim dress. Evening, a Sarafpour mainstay, went two ways — low-key in black-and-white dresses that continued a thread from her resort collection, and then glamorous with jeweled necklines. After all, it's a girl's prerogative to change her mind.Luca Luca: Tigers and butterflies and bees, oh my. Color Luca Orlandi a bit dazed and confused, because his vision at Luca Luca lacked the focus he showed in the past. It seemed the designer didn't know which way he wanted to go — girly, with the bouncy butterfly-embroidered frock, or sexy, à la the gold-and-black-striped taffeta dress and sequined leopard-print skirt, or cashmere casual, as in a simple long-sleeved polo. It all felt out of sorts alongside the tamer and more languid trappings sent down the runway. Still, Orlandi continued to mine the ladylike ease he's toyed with before, showing enough to satisfy Luca Luca's social set. Cases in point: the gala-bound silk lamé gowns and effortless wardrobe basics, including wool knit skirts, sleek crepe pantsuits and rich astrakhan coats.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty