DSquared: It appears that the designing twins Dan and Dean Caten have repented for their sins. For their fall DSquared collection, they decided to forgo their usual antics — you know, showing super-late in a nightclub where...
DSquared: It appears that the designing twins Dan and Dean Caten have repented for their sins. For their fall DSquared collection, they decided to forgo their usual antics — you know, showing super-late in a nightclub where friends and sycophants were more important than professional showgoers — in favor of a proper runway show in a tent. It would also appear that the girl they envision is growing up with them, and they’ve even got her going to church!
These two like to work a set, this time replicating a chapel, packing the pews with models and filling the runway with lots of their usual fare — tons of skinny jeans, fitted microplaid shirts and sexy leather jackets with a rock ’n’ roll edge. But now that this girl has seen the light, she’s open to mixing in some primmer fare. Sharp skirts tightly packed with pleats came in pinstriped gray wool or cotton khaki with the word “angel” embroidered at the hip. Coats were cut clean, as in a sweet camel version, its only embellishment a neat slit pocket in back, or an Empire-waisted, whip-stitched shearling. A pencil skirt was topped by a lean cardigan and denim jacket, belted in leather with a studded bow and a fur scarf, the perfect marriage of the old and new muse. Oh, happy day!
Luisa Beccaria: Not all designers feel the pressure to set new trends or stir up the media in this fashion-a-minute merry-go-round. And Luisa Beccaria is one who doesn’t. She’s more interested in satisfying her loyal customers — so, season after season, Beccaria delivers the fluttering silks, frosted pastels and graceful embellishments that have won her a very nice roster of fans, including young socials, as well as the red-carpet crowd.
For fall, Beccaria unfurled yards of rose and butterfly silks and tapestry florals, which she draped, ruched, beribboned and dazzled up for soft blouses, layered flounced dresses and pleated skirts. Then she enveloped these with roomy sheared mink jackets, A-line coats with jeweled necklines and flirtatious tweed jackets. A perfect mix to send her pretty young things off on their round of high teas, clubs and grand soireès. Beccaria’s poetic wiles may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they bring out the princess in such red-carpet clients as Jennifer Lopez, Madonna and Nicole Kidman.
Riccardo Tisci: He’s been the talk of the Milan season. He’s reportedly the top candidate for the Givenchy women’s wear post, and an announcement is expected this week. He got Karla Otto to do his p.r. He lured top fashion editors to his show. So why didn’t Riccardo Tisci capitalize on the moment? Rather than charm weary editors with a precise presentation late Friday night — and let his high-drama clothes stand on their own — he made the rookie mistake of going artsy with a brooding installation set up in a frigid warehouse on the fringe of Milan.
Riccardo, you’re young, you’re allowed to make mistakes, but listen up. Fifty minutes of waiting on cold concrete in an incense-infused warehouse just to see Maria Carla play with some leaves and stand in front of a giant wood cross did not create an ecclesiastical experience. Instead, it incited the profane — or rather profanity — as dozens of angry editors bolted while your models moved at a snail’s pace around a poorly lit set. The logistical muddle aside, and what a muddle it was, there were evocative pieces. A cream wool jersey dress gathered and knotted at front, a long black velvet opera coat and an unevenly cut beige broadtail jacket demonstrated Tisci’s raw talent. Yet the presentation’s overwrought pretension overshadowed the clothes. Let’s hope that Tisci seeks redemption next season.
Ermanno Scervino: It would be easy to pigeonhole Ermanno Scervino as an Italian brand favored by over-tanned Milanese women. Sure, its down-filled tailored coats trimmed in knits and chiffon bustiers are perfect for Roman actresses and are even favorites of the Italian prime minister’s wife. Yet designer Ermanno Daelli has worked to avoid such a stereotype through thoughtful collections that balance rocker chic and feminine whims. There’s nothing cerebral or difficult about these clothes, and that’s exactly how Daelli wants it.
For fall, the designer toughened up lovely chiffon tops with slouchy tweed trousers, added delicate embroidery to fur-trimmed anoraks and set lace insets on graceful gray knits. Neither prim nor punk, Daelli captured a sensible medium for women who want fashion without the fuss.Giuliana Teso: Fur is as hot as ever these days, making it the perfect season for fur specialist Giuliana Teso to celebrate its 25th anniversary. Drawing inspiration from Russia’s fin de siècle imperial courts, Teso raised the bar on the luxe factor and loaded her collection with sable, chinchilla, astrakhan, Persian lamb and mink.
Teso worked her shapes and treated her furs every which way — form-fitting, generous and swingy, shaggy or sheared, mixed-and-matched, showered with Swarovski crystals or trimmed with faux pearls.
These were served up in black and a pretty array of colors, including wisteria, dusty blue and salmon. Standouts included a cropped belted jacket with shaggy collar, hooded snow-bunny styles and an ultraflat sheared mink coat with black beading. Teso showed her furs over simple knits, riding breeches and A-line skirts, clearly keeping the focus on her elegant furs.
Cividini: Piero and Miriam Cividini, the husband-and-wife team behind this brand, like to handle trends with care. That means plucking an idea or two and refining it for a customer who’s more interested in looking pretty than making a big fashion statement. These women crave practicality and quality, which is exactly what this light-spirited, feminine collection was all about. The couple played with contrasting textures — tissue-thin silks, crushed velvets, fur and, of course, knitwear, the company’s forte.
Layering can sometimes be a tricky business, but here it worked just fine, as evidenced by fuzzy mohair cardigans and gossamer tops over sheer blouses and jacquard or panné velvet skirts, and the wholesome-looking cardigans over ocher chiffon tops and printed skirts. To top it all off, the Cividinis completed the looks with fur or slim tweed coats.
Bally: Never one to bypass the company’s tried-and-true formula of sensible clothes and accessories, Bally ready-to-wear designer Luca Ragonesi still manages to deliver collections that balance elegance and a contemporary cool. This season, it showed up in the form of white deerskin blouson jackets over flared cotton drill pants, shaved shearlings with murmansky fur collars and thick cashmere sweaters with goatskin insets topping camelhair minis. All the better to play up the plethora of accessories that designer Johnny Coca churned out — high-heeled shearling boots and clogs, crocodile driving loafers, kitten-heel pumps with detachable pompoms and small shoulder bags with bold metal hardware in everything from orilag fur to calfskin.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews