DSquared: It appears that the designing twins Dan and Dean Caten have repented for their sins. For their fall DSquared collection, they decided to forgo their usual antics — you know, showing super-late in a nightclub where friends and sycophants were more important than professional showgoers — in favor of a proper runway show in a tent. It would also appear that the girl they envision is growing up with them, and they’ve even got her going to church!

These two like to work a set, this time replicating a chapel, packing the pews with models and filling the runway with lots of their usual fare — tons of skinny jeans, fitted microplaid shirts and sexy leather jackets with a rock ’n’ roll edge. But now that this girl has seen the light, she’s open to mixing in some primmer fare. Sharp skirts tightly packed with pleats came in pinstriped gray wool or cotton khaki with the word “angel” embroidered at the hip. Coats were cut clean, as in a sweet camel version, its only embellishment a neat slit pocket in back, or an Empire-waisted, whip-stitched shearling. A pencil skirt was topped by a lean cardigan and denim jacket, belted in leather with a studded bow and a fur scarf, the perfect marriage of the old and new muse. Oh, happy day!

Luisa Beccaria: Not all designers feel the pressure to set new trends or stir up the media in this fashion-a-minute merry-go-round. And Luisa Beccaria is one who doesn’t. She’s more interested in satisfying her loyal customers — so, season after season, Beccaria delivers the fluttering silks, frosted pastels and graceful embellishments that have won her a very nice roster of fans, including young socials, as well as the red-carpet crowd.

For fall, Beccaria unfurled yards of rose and butterfly silks and tapestry florals, which she draped, ruched, beribboned and dazzled up for soft blouses, layered flounced dresses and pleated skirts. Then she enveloped these with roomy sheared mink jackets, A-line coats with jeweled necklines and flirtatious tweed jackets. A perfect mix to send her pretty young things off on their round of high teas, clubs and grand soireès.  

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