NEW YORK — The spring market here ended up being a high-traffic, fast-paced, two-week affair featuring a plethora of trends.
The first half kicked off with the three-day Lingerie Americas trade show, which closed Aug. 1 and drew 2,709 retailers, reflecting a 2 percent increase over the year-ago session. The intimates fair also featured two new segments that received positive reactions from merchants: fashion runway shows staged three times daily highlighting lingerie, sleepwear and swimwear, and an expanded exhibit space called The Level on the fifth floor of the Metropolitan Pavilion, a venue for 45 fashion brands, such as René Rofé and Playboy Intimates.
Key trends included
Retro floral prints.
Bold colors, such as pink, green, yellow, mauve and blue.
Luxe fabrics, such as silk charmeuse, pima cottons and cotton lawn, and an abundance of sheers including tulle, chiffon and georgette.
Blatantly sexy bra and panty sets, especially boudoir looks dressed up with short, seductive robes.
The momentum picked up at Madison Avenue showrooms such as the Warnaco Group with the Warner's and Olga labels; Movie Star Inc.; Vanity Fair and Vassarette; the Age Group with the Flora Nikrooz and licensed Baby Phat Intimates by Kimora Lee Simmons collections; Maidenform Inc. with the Maidenform, Flexees and Lilyette bra brands, and Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, which unveiled its Bali, Wonderbra, Barely There, Playtex, Hanes and Just My Size lines for spring selling.
The pace also accelerated at showrooms with brands that received dual exposure at Lingerie Americas, including the Natori, Josie Natori and Josie brands by the Natori Co.; Hanky Panky; Vera Wang Intimates, Eileen West and Donna Nadeau at the Komar Co.; Elle Macpherson Intimates, and the Carole Hochman Design Group, which showcased several labels including Oscar de la Renta, Lauren Ralph Lauren, Betsey Johnson Intimates, Stan Herman and On Gossamer.
A number of vendors said two heavy hitters in a shrinking market place — Federated Department Stores and Kohl's Corp. — were making the rounds last week.
Also lending excitement were two events: the first Lingerie for the Cure fashion show and cocktail party staged by the Boutique Lingerie Show, a compact trade fair at the Royalton Hotel organized by designer Samantha Chang, and a cocktail party and fashion show at the Wacoal America showrooms. The Wacoal soiree, which was staged for specialty boutique buyers, highlighted new styles by the DKNY Underwear and Donna Karan Intimates lines, as well as new Wacoal G cup bra styles.Regarding retailers' perspectives on the two-week market, Rebecca Apsan, owner of La Petite Coquette, a specialty store in Manhattan, said, "All in all, it was a good market and I ended up very pleased with everything. What I really liked were the sexy fashion items from Argentovivo, the beautiful sleepwear and robes by Jane Woolrich, and Huit — I was crazy about their bras and panties."
Kristine Cole, owner of Remembrance, a lingerie shop in Hanover, N.H., said, "Lingerie Americas and the French brands have become an important part of my business, which continues to provide more than basics for my customers. Wacoal is my bread-and-butter brand, but I'm layering that with Simone Pérèle this year."
Linda Vinciguerra, owner of Linda Lingerie in Staten Island, N.Y., said "anything sexy-looking" was her mission.
"I do well with tummy-control leggings by Spanx and items by BodyWrap, and anything from Fashion Forms like the Water Bra, and bras with whipped silicone push-up pads sell very well," Vinciguerra said. "I get a lot of customers who are well endowed, whether implants or naturally, so my top bras are Chantelle and the Le Mystère Renaissance bras."
Donna Goetz, owner of The Hope Chest, an intimate apparel shop in Haverford, Pa., said, "This time, I was trying to get in touch with good basics. I looked at companies I don't normally spend a lot of time on for items that were new and hot."
Goetz singled out four brands: Louis Féraud knit sleepwear, Hanro sleepwear and daywear, cashmere robes by Chris Arlotta and "sexy and different-looking" bras and panties by Spoylt.
"I still love Chantelle because they've done such a great job with T-shirt bras and they continue to do new things with G cups," said Karen Fritts, owner of Loretta's lingerie boutique in Houston. "My best-selling bra right now is the Fantasie of England T-shirt bra. I'm now seriously considering ordering fashion items from Empreinte, which does fuller cups and band sizes."
Brenda M. Meadows, owner of The Lingerie Shoppe in Birmingham, Ala., said she was "very pleased" with the abundance of fashion and new products. She singled out items at four showrooms of sales representatives: the Bonsoir, Treesha and Sassybax brands at Olivia Feldman; Rocketwear and slippers by Naples at Linda Hartman; Calida and Aubade at Claudia Driggs, and Diamond T at the Nitewear Network."Wacoal, Chantelle and Le Mystère are my key [bra] brands, but this time I added special-looking bras by Simone Pérèle to the mix," said Meadows.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty