NEW YORK — As the rest of New York prepares to pile on the layers for cool weather, almost 1,200 vendors will be thinking warm thoughts during the spring collections at the Fashion Coterie.
Bright colors in shades of yellow, red and orange will take center stage at Coterie, which starts Tuesday and ends Sept. 30 at Piers 90, 92 and 94. There also will be intricately detailed pieces, from jeans to caftans. Heavily adorned styles incorporating embroidery and beadwork will be evident. More casual, sporty designs take a back seat to dressier, ladylike styles — looks designers are welcoming with open arms.
“For spring, we’re seeing sophisticated, classic tastes with so much detailing,” said designer Cynthia Rowley, who has been showing her wares at Coterie since 2000. “It’s a great place to get smaller and bigger people under one roof.”
Amy Smilovic, founder of Tibi, a contemporary New York firm, said, “subtle details, not overt ones, will be big this spring” and reflect the core principles of Tibi: natural fabrics mixed with Indonesian-inspired details.
She predicted a resurgence in the peasant style, “but not that cowgirl peasant look from 2001.” Batik dresses and caftan tops will dominate Tibi’s collection, as well as fitted, shrunken jackets, but not bolero jackets. “I think that might be a little too victim-y by the time spring rolls out,” Smilovic said.
Edward Kangeter, vice president of sales and marketing for the Italian-based company Fornarina, said he is bringing a cache of jackets to the show. “We’re featuring a cropped lightweight leather jacket that is off-the-shoulder with studded detail on the back,” he said.
Since 1998, Fornarina has grown into a multinational company. Total annual sales are about $154 million. “We’ve had a 25 percent growth over the last five years annually,” Kangeter said, noting the growing trend of ethnic pieces dominating spring collections. “Our designers will travel the world. We’re mixing a lot of fabrics and styles.”
Cristiana Proietti, of the cashmere-based label Cris, said shrugs will continue to ride out their popularity from this fall. “I think the bottoms will get bigger, so people will need something smaller on top,” she said.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"