Pretty sportif — that’s the niche Stella McCartney has carved out for herself, and on Thursday morning it made for a fresh, utterly delightful collection.
Aspiring designers could take a lesson from McCartney, who endured some rough patches while finding her place in the overstuffed arena that is fashion. Through trial, error and a lot of hard work, she has managed to make the transition from a cheeky/cheesy aesthetic to one of youthful, breezy chic while retaining her core: cool, Savile Row-rooted tailoring played against ultra-easy pieces, and often cribbing from athletic standards.
This combination played perfectly into the shirt craze du jour, but while other designers gussy up the classic, she worked its natural simplicity.
First look out: a long, mannish jacket over a leggy shirt-cum-romper. That most difficult of items, the little onesie — with one foot in the nursery, the other in tap class and both typically on the threshold of silly — developed into another motif that McCartney made work, both in those snappy shirts and playful bubble shapes.
Her dresses, layered tanks and fluff-sleeved trapezes had the same nonchalance and greater range. As for the sports references, they came no-nonsense, in simple anoraks, and sweet, in the most sedate two-piece swimsuit this side of “Beach Blanket Bingo.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast