From baby-doll dresses to full-cut skirts to coats that could double as robes, designers' love affair with more-is-better shapes continued in a big way.
Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti’s fall collection was autumnal to a T with nubby tweeds, cozy knits and passementerie coats putting a chill in the air. Chiffon dresses, while not particularly wintery, came cut loose on the body and were decorated with bits of crafty crochet.
Meanwhile, Ferretti joined the gaggle of Milanese designers eager to experiment with amped-up volumes, cutting her coats to flare at the hips and inflating skirts. Of course, those big, bold shapes can quickly turn thick and tricky, and the pumped-up look fell like a leaden soufflé with heavy crocheted lace dresses and hostess skirts. Soon enough, however, Ferretti was floating once again, sending out several wonderful evening looks, including a pale gray party dress streaked with icicles of shining silver.
Trend Les Copains: Two trends sweeping through Milan are a sober mood highlighted by new volumes and proportions and a fascination with lord-of-the-manor fabrics. Antonio Marras, the creative director of Trend Les Copains, channeled both in a strong fall collection that shunned pure traditional fare and played up the designer’s keen eye for shape and passion for fabrics.
The first exit summed up the mood — a flowy rose silk blouse under a brown pinstriped riding jacket and matching breeches, complete with a rhinestone whip and leather cap. That silhouette dominated the runway as Marras offered endless variations on the theme. An off-the-shoulder pink sweater with appliquéd roses topped mud brown velvet breeches, while a black sheared fur jacket with floral motif was worn over flannel riding pants. The look carried over to evening as a sequined paisley twin set paired up with blue denim breeches.
But Marras knows his spiffy horse set also needs clothes for those après-stable moments. Then they can trot off in bouclé skirts and jackets, embroidered flannel coats or fur-trimmed hopsack versions over chevron pantsuits. Marras delivered clothes that blended commercial clout with a trendy edge, and that’s good horse sense.
Piazza Sempione: Piazza Sempione creative director Marisa Guerrizio knows that her clients appreciate a nod toward seasonal trends and just that. She understands how disconcerting it would be for her loyal customers to go from slim pencil skirts to this season’s love affair with volume. So rather than overwhelm them with fashion hyperbole, Guerrizio concentrated on updating Piazza Sempione’s perennial elegance through subtle changes in proportions, textures and patterns.For fall she showed slightly boxy cashmere knits with contrast borders, navy silk Empire dresses with understated billowy hems, fuller-cut tweed jackets and cropped silk pants done in vintage-tie jacquard prints. The charming collection had just the right amount of faint fantasy for women grounded in reality. Meanwhile, the company’s retail reality is growing with plans to open its first flagship in Rome later this year.
D&G: If there’s ever been a natural theme for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to explore with their D&G collection, it’s glam rock. After all, what is D&G but a little bit glam and a whole lot of rock? The designers’ ode to Ziggy Stardust and his brethren meant lots of Victoriana by way of Portobello and a fleet of fluffy and fab check-me-out furs. High-collared lace tops were paired with cropped velvet pants or micro-miniskirts. Baby-doll dresses were trimmed with velvet ribbons or edged in lace and cut ultrashort and cheeky. These were plentiful — and adorable — and spun the season’s fascination with volume in a fresh way. But while a D&G send-up of the glittering Seventies makes perfect sense, this collection occasionally lacked the wit and originality of the designers’ brightest best.
Krizia: Mariuccia Mandelli, who took her bow this season with Krizia’s longtime artistic director, Paolo Trillini, has gender play on her mind. Her masculine-feminine motif mingled oversized dress shirts and tailored jackets with glittery girly fare. And though she may go solo in her androgynous approach this season, Mandelli endorsed the bigger-is-better trend in a major way. Her robe-like coats were cut in gigantic proportions. Sweaters spilled over the shoulders. Heavy tweed pants were roomy and then some. The best of the lot, however, were her simplest looks: a shift dress paved with paillettes and shrunken boyish jackets.
Mariella Burani: Milan is low on high-wattage celebrities this season, but Mariella Burani’s front row is always brimming with pretty, pouty Italian stars who are happy to show off the designer’s clothes, in their own ways, of course. Burani, in fact, caters to all their personal styles with collections that often fuse contrasting themes and a variety of inspirations. Evidently, she wants to reach a vast clientele.This season her lineup of looks included a biker-chick black leather jacket and boots over a ruffled peasant dress in lollipop pink; a beige glen plaid pantsuit and fur vest; a gypsy-ish hoop skirt in crushed velvet, lace and tulle swirling under a grass-green fuzzy wool coat. And you can always count on Burani for prints. This season, it was postcard views of Venice — guess where that came from — splattered across satin skirts and nylon ski jackets. Something for everyone, as they say.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews