At House of Jazz, the Eighties are forever. This season, designers Hazel Robinson and Pablo Flack worked the era’s exercise gear and its sock hop silhouettes in punchy tropical colors. Think Olivia Newton John doing aerobics or playing Sandy in “Grease.”
This story first appeared in the September 16, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
With an athletic gray T-shirt dress, washed silk coveralls and plenty of utility trimmings throughout, Maria Chen-Pascual gave a nod to both Norma Kamali’s early Eighties look and classic Ann Demulemeester for Maria Chen.
A dozen white T-shirts were sculpted into a dress at Preen, where Justin Thorton and Thea Bregazzi kept the mood icy and industrial with straps, flaps, winding belts and hardware. The best looks, however, hinted at romance with delicate tulle and a bit of silver lamé.
At Blaak, Aaron Sharif and Sachiko Okada honed in on a spacey sporty look, layering and splicing mesh and metallic foil over sleek Lycra-sparked bodysuits. Their best piece — and one the duo did in innumerable colors, materials and cuts—was a cropped bomber jacket that was both sexy and wearable in nearly every incarnation.
Russell Sage sent out a fleet of artsy forest nymphs in deconstructed folk dresses. Some looked sweet, but more often than not Sage seemed lost in the woods.
Sexy, slashed and barely-there, Markus Lupfer’s dresses in geometric printed neon pink, black and white layers were some of the strongest looks on Londo’’s runways. Lupfer is one young designer who can successfully give tailored looks a sporty edge.
Emma Cook’s collection had a Sixties feel with short, swingy skirts and dresses à la Courreges. What looked best were her cut out T-shirts, printed with bumble bees and flowers. But why all the plastic? Cook goes wild for the stuff with plastic-coated printed trousers and skirts and colored wet-look patent leather touches on dresses.
Giuliana Testino calls on the expert hands of 400 Peruvian women to create her hip, sexy collection of crocheted and macramé shawls, scarves, cardigans and dresses. Testino, who studied architecture, said it was her brother, the celebrated fashion photographer Mario Testino, who pushed her to indulge her passion for clothing design and set up a label. And while it may be her first official presentation, she has already been selling at Bendel’s, Language and Takashimaya.