And that’s all, folks. The New York collections signed off with a shot of youthful feminism, à la playful frocks, ruffled gowns and snappy combos.
Zac Posen: Simple Shakers and early American settlers seemed an improbable inspiration for Zac Posen, a designer known for his undying love of over-the-top runway theatrics and sexy siren gowns. It's not that Posen is incapable of doing simple. The show-opening tailored looks — vaguely safari pants and jackets, and a long black sleeveless jacket — were smart, modern and controlled. And there were graceful pairings of the unfettered and his signature dramatic frills, such as a trim, cropped jacket worn with a white skirt that fell in a cascade of ribbon candy-shaped ruffles. Posen used undulating effect throughout on blouses, long skirts and the cavalcade of bright evening gowns that, come award season, undoubtedly will make for memorable red-carpet moments. But at times, he took the Shaker theme to an earnest extreme, as in a blouse with a giant pilgrim collar and a dress that, laser-cut to resemble wheat, looked like a belted sheaf. That said, Posen is no Puritan. In fact, a lack of restraint is his biggest problem, and his greatest indulgence is the big, splashy finish. This time he took a sky's-the-limit approach to it: Five models simultaneously skulked the runway in cloud-like gowns intended to depict weather patterns — serene, nimbus, cyclone, cumulus and cirrus, as they were called in the show notes — and a sunrise or sunset print. It was more like the twilight zone.
Tory Burch: Tory Burch has the preppy-meets-bohemian jet-setter down pat. For spring, she'll wear a tomboy-chic kelly green drawstring fishing jacket to the marina; pretty, embellished tunics to Saint-Tropez, and a paperweight chiffon dress with paillettes to cocktail hour in Palm Springs. None of the highly decorated looks — jeweled necklines, busy prints and embroideries were many — was a stretch for Burch. But considering the meteoric retail ascent of her three-year-old collection, it doesn't need a makeover. The news here was accessories: jewelry done, as Burch said, "in a bigger way," meaning giant geometric bib necklaces, and oversize straw totes and canvas bowling bags trimmed in patent leather. And those metallic thongs and gladiators accented with logo disks may just be the open-toe answer to her ubiquitous ballet-flat bestseller.
Issa Rae stopped by WWD's NYC headquarters to talk about season two of "Insecure," which premieres this Sunday on HBO. Click link in bio for all the details. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery; Styled by @mayteallende)
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"