Tailoring houses continued their love affair with sportswear for spring.
“Our sportswear business is growing fast — knits, jeans, swimwear, blazers that can be worn with jeans, it’s a new way of dressing,” said Antonio Paone, president of Kiton USA. A slimmer, shorter silhouette for jackets, a denim cashmere blazer, suede blouson and a trench made from water-repellent leather figured among new directions for the Neapolitan tailor. “It’s for the Kiton customer on the weekend,” said Paone.
Continuing its lifestyle push, PPR-owned Brioni is harnessing sportswear to add a younger dimension to its universe. Helping bring the concept to life, the house tapped a range of personalities to model its new collection at an outdoor presentation in the gardens of Milan’s Palazzo della Triennale.
Younger, sportier and more colorful in allure, silhouettes were slim, with lean one- and two-button, slightly shorter jackets and a peg trouser. Highlights included a summery one-button linen silk suit worn with a knit-collar sport shirt, a denim blazer and colored knits inspired by Fifties furniture fabrics. “It’s all about lifestyle, just taking the Brioni man outside and putting him in a much more relaxed setting….It’s also allowing the Brioni man to learn that he can break down his wardrobe and break down the rules on how he dresses,” said Jason Basmajian, artistic director.
Even esoteric Milanese tailored clothing label Uman dabbled in sportswear this season, albeit retaining sartorial details, with a capsule line inspired by the mariner jacket the house presented two years ago. New product included a Harrington jacket with wind pockets and crewneck knits in Sea Island cotton.
Caruso’s tailoring offer took a more youthful turn, with slim pants and a shorter, two-button jacket silhouette with wider, higher lapels.
Canali’s beefed-up sportswear included sleek leather biker and bomber jackets and knitted polo shirts with 3-D geometric patterns. But Canali also remained true to its sartorial roots, and showcased many of this season’s major trends, including lightweight summer raincoats, high-buttoned blazers and single-pleat trousers. The shimmering evening jackets in palmlike baroque patterns were crazy, but fun.
Corneliani worked in signature pearl gray and biscuit tones, and key pieces included airy knits and summer leathers, such as a dove gray napa safari jacket or a sporty perforated suede blazer. Easy pants and softly tailored jackets in silk and linen weaves inspired by winter tweeds lent a bucolic flavor. Barring the strong-shouldered shiny tailoring that felt a tad outdated, a range of deconstructed suits with wide-lapel jackets evoked easy elegance, accessorized with roman sandals or open-weave leather espadrilles.
At Daks, creative director Filippo Scuffi whipped up trenches in khaki with bright orange details and vice versa.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion