Tailoring houses continued their love affair with sportswear for spring.
“Our sportswear business is growing fast — knits, jeans, swimwear, blazers that can be worn with jeans, it’s a new way of dressing,” said Antonio Paone, president of Kiton USA. A slimmer, shorter silhouette for jackets, a denim cashmere blazer, suede blouson and a trench made from water-repellent leather figured among new directions for the Neapolitan tailor. “It’s for the Kiton customer on the weekend,” said Paone.
Continuing its lifestyle push, PPR-owned Brioni is harnessing sportswear to add a younger dimension to its universe. Helping bring the concept to life, the house tapped a range of personalities to model its new collection at an outdoor presentation in the gardens of Milan’s Palazzo della Triennale.
Younger, sportier and more colorful in allure, silhouettes were slim, with lean one- and two-button, slightly shorter jackets and a peg trouser. Highlights included a summery one-button linen silk suit worn with a knit-collar sport shirt, a denim blazer and colored knits inspired by Fifties furniture fabrics. “It’s all about lifestyle, just taking the Brioni man outside and putting him in a much more relaxed setting….It’s also allowing the Brioni man to learn that he can break down his wardrobe and break down the rules on how he dresses,” said Jason Basmajian, artistic director.
Even esoteric Milanese tailored clothing label Uman dabbled in sportswear this season, albeit retaining sartorial details, with a capsule line inspired by the mariner jacket the house presented two years ago. New product included a Harrington jacket with wind pockets and crewneck knits in Sea Island cotton.
Caruso’s tailoring offer took a more youthful turn, with slim pants and a shorter, two-button jacket silhouette with wider, higher lapels.
Canali’s beefed-up sportswear included sleek leather biker and bomber jackets and knitted polo shirts with 3-D geometric patterns. But Canali also remained true to its sartorial roots, and showcased many of this season’s major trends, including lightweight summer raincoats, high-buttoned blazers and single-pleat trousers. The shimmering evening jackets in palmlike baroque patterns were crazy, but fun.
Corneliani worked in signature pearl gray and biscuit tones, and key pieces included airy knits and summer leathers, such as a dove gray napa safari jacket or a sporty perforated suede blazer. Easy pants and softly tailored jackets in silk and linen weaves inspired by winter tweeds lent a bucolic flavor. Barring the strong-shouldered shiny tailoring that felt a tad outdated, a range of deconstructed suits with wide-lapel jackets evoked easy elegance, accessorized with roman sandals or open-weave leather espadrilles.
At Daks, creative director Filippo Scuffi whipped up trenches in khaki with bright orange details and vice versa.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews