Tailoring houses continued their love affair with sportswear for spring.
“Our sportswear business is growing fast — knits, jeans, swimwear, blazers that can be worn with jeans, it’s a new way of dressing,” said Antonio Paone, president of Kiton USA. A slimmer, shorter silhouette for jackets, a denim cashmere blazer, suede blouson and a trench made from water-repellent leather figured among new directions for the Neapolitan tailor. “It’s for the Kiton customer on the weekend,” said Paone.
Continuing its lifestyle push, PPR-owned Brioni is harnessing sportswear to add a younger dimension to its universe. Helping bring the concept to life, the house tapped a range of personalities to model its new collection at an outdoor presentation in the gardens of Milan’s Palazzo della Triennale.
Younger, sportier and more colorful in allure, silhouettes were slim, with lean one- and two-button, slightly shorter jackets and a peg trouser. Highlights included a summery one-button linen silk suit worn with a knit-collar sport shirt, a denim blazer and colored knits inspired by Fifties furniture fabrics. “It’s all about lifestyle, just taking the Brioni man outside and putting him in a much more relaxed setting….It’s also allowing the Brioni man to learn that he can break down his wardrobe and break down the rules on how he dresses,” said Jason Basmajian, artistic director.
Even esoteric Milanese tailored clothing label Uman dabbled in sportswear this season, albeit retaining sartorial details, with a capsule line inspired by the mariner jacket the house presented two years ago. New product included a Harrington jacket with wind pockets and crewneck knits in Sea Island cotton.
Caruso’s tailoring offer took a more youthful turn, with slim pants and a shorter, two-button jacket silhouette with wider, higher lapels.
Canali’s beefed-up sportswear included sleek leather biker and bomber jackets and knitted polo shirts with 3-D geometric patterns. But Canali also remained true to its sartorial roots, and showcased many of this season’s major trends, including lightweight summer raincoats, high-buttoned blazers and single-pleat trousers. The shimmering evening jackets in palmlike baroque patterns were crazy, but fun.
Corneliani worked in signature pearl gray and biscuit tones, and key pieces included airy knits and summer leathers, such as a dove gray napa safari jacket or a sporty perforated suede blazer. Easy pants and softly tailored jackets in silk and linen weaves inspired by winter tweeds lent a bucolic flavor. Barring the strong-shouldered shiny tailoring that felt a tad outdated, a range of deconstructed suits with wide-lapel jackets evoked easy elegance, accessorized with roman sandals or open-weave leather espadrilles.
At Daks, creative director Filippo Scuffi whipped up trenches in khaki with bright orange details and vice versa.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)