NEW YORK — Beyond Anna Sui’s snowboard-inspired looks and Matthew Williamson’s pastel athletic sweaters, women around the globe aren’t waiting for fashion cues about how to blend activewear with their everyday...
NEW YORK — Beyond Anna Sui’s snowboard-inspired looks and Matthew Williamson’s pastel athletic sweaters, women around the globe aren’t waiting for fashion cues about how to blend activewear with their everyday attire.
Women on the street are often a better read than runway models on emerging trends, according to apparel executives, as evidenced by athletic trends in a variety of locales.
In Florence, sophisticated women are layering T-shirts for a little flair. In Brazil, fitness fans are favoring workout pants with cummerbund-sized roll-down waistbands and in Los Angeles, gymgoers are showing up for step class in cargo pants.
Having been in Paris and Florence last month, Patricia Ratut, director of U.S. operations for Manuel Canovas, said, "The layering is being done in a sophisticated way, not so much in the jogging-trend way. Women today want to look more dynamic. Time is running very fast and working women keep a very fast pace. When you move around like we do to get to an appointment, to catch a train or a taxi, you don’t want to be frustrated by your clothes."
She also spotted more hooded tops and other Juicy Couture-type looks, referring to the Los Angeles brand known for its velour warmups and fitted, zip-front tops.
"It’s not so much being worn by young girls as it is being worn by women between the ages of 35 and 50. She wants to look younger and she wants to feel more comfortable in her clothes," she said.
Unlike American women who are not afraid to wear head-to-toe athletic-inspired attire, their European counterparts are mixing hooded tops, fleece cardigans and other activewear with sportswear in a more sophisticated way. In Florence for last month’s Pitti Filati show, she noticed a lot of layering, such as combining long-sleeved T-shirts with different length tops. One of her favorite outfits was a top worn over a soft jersey dress and velvet trousers.
Brazilian women are also going for a more polished look even on the beach, said swimwear designer Amahlia Stevens of Vitamin A, who vacationed recently in Rio de Janeiro.
"Women have so much more style in Rio," Stevens said. "The weather is so warm all year long that swimwear is so much a part of their wardrobe. They won’t go on the boardwalk in just their bathing suits. They were wearing them with cute and sexy coverups and metallic or beaded sandals."Brazilian women are also inventive with their athletic clothing. Hip-flattering workout pants with a waistband that can roll down four or five inches are popular, Stevens said. Most women were wearing "superthin" workout clothes with thongs underneath, she noted, and earth tones and cutout shapes were also popular, Stevens said.
Fresh from a trip to last week’s Première Vision in Paris, designer Tina Lutz of Lutz & Patmos, who also freelances for Nuala, said, "One thing you see everywhere is Y3," referring to Yohji Yamamoto’s line for Adidas.
In addition to the line’s footwear, she noticed women wearing Y3 jackets with three stripes that appear to wrap around one sleeve, including one who paired it with jeans and low heels and another who went for the head-to-toe look.
Lutz also noticed Puma footwear designed by Japanese designer Yasuhiro Mihara. The Puma Mihara collection is available in Puma stores, select specialty stores and department stores in large cities in Europe, Asia and the U.S.
She noted the irony that two well-known Japanese designers would partner with Herzogenaurach, Germany-based athletic firms for exclusive collections. Lutz attributed their appeal to the hard-to-find nature of their designs.
During a recent trip to Tokyo, industrial designer Yvés Behar, who has collaborated with Lutz & Patmos and now MINI, took note of elegant-looking convertibles — clothes that can be converted into different styles. One of his favorite reversible items was a black blazer with a water-repellent interior that doubled as a raincoat.
With the America’s Cup in its final round, sailing fans watching the races in Auckland, New Zealand, are suiting up in jackets and shorts with their favorite team’s logo, said Annarita Sini, marketing assistant for Riri, a sponsor of the favorite Team Alinghi, the Swiss challenger.
During her visit there last week, she noticed "a lot of technicalwear on very fashionable people. Most of the time they’re wearing team clothing for Alinghi or Team New Zealand, but sometimes you see Prada."
Bruce Fetter, co-president of St. John Knits, said he got an eyeful of sailing staples — windbreakers, shorts and sweatshirts — while checking out the Louis Vuitton Cup, the qualifier for the America’s Cup in December.Line 7, a New Zealand-based sailing label, was in stores everywhere. Louis Vuitton, no surprise, also had some prime real estate, even though designer apparel is not a big draw there, Fetter said.
In the U.S., fashion-minded gymgoers in Los Angeles and New York are turning out for exercise classes in jeans and cargo pants, but in many places that’s still against the rules in certain gyms.
"We’re seeing more street clothes in the gym," said Donna Cyrus, national group fitness director for Crunch, a New York-based gym. She noted that Europeans are embracing kickboxing, spinning and other classes that have been going strong here for five or six years. Given that, they lag behind in their gym attire and are still wearing tight, bright-colored clothing, Cyrus said.
"We create a different line [of Crunch activewear] for the U.S. market," she said. "[Europeans] are ahead of us in upscale fashion in every way. But in fitness fashion, it’s just the reverse."
Maria Stefan, vice president of international global development for the Sporting Goods Manufacturers’ Association, also has heard that cargo pants are catching on. She was told military looks like cargo pants and tops with epaulets dominated the scene at last month’s Bread & Butter trade show in Berlin. Adidas, Levi’s and Diesel were among the 250 exhibitors at the show — a sure sign of the continued merger of urban streetwear and activewear.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye