The ghostly and Gothic mix with the sweet on London’s runways.
Julien Macdonald: Restrained, classic, simple. Julien Macdonald dumped the vamps, the sexy Miss Marples, and the Russian trophy wives this season and moved on to the fresh-faced socialite. The collection had an innocence rarely seen on Macdonald's glittering runway. His latest girl wears sweet, crocheted dresses with matching jackets; crocheted tops paired with swingy minis, and zip-front color-block cardigans over fluid A-line dresses. For evening, Macdonald upped the glitter factor with short, tiered sequin dresses in Harlequin colors and patterns, and sparkle-studded flapper dresses with marabou edging. But the show was too long, and by the end Macdonald had lost his way. His strappy dresses — with or without buckles on the shoulder strap — resembled old Versace, and his bejeweled and fringed flapper dresses smacked of old Alice Temperley.
Christopher Kane: Kane's raw materials this season weren't promising: Bon Jovi shredded denim, reptile prints reminiscent of Roberto Cavalli and boho flounces à la Stevie Nicks. But somehow, out of the darkness, Kane's girl emerged looking like a goddess. She wore faded denim that was shredded or artfully sliced into ruffled skirts, jackets and skinny jeans. Her python- and lizard-print frills and flounces — which spilled over dresses, skirts and cowboy shirts — were subtle and came in shades of gray, peach and taupe. Some were even edged in delicate strips of python. There were rock 'n' roll jersey T-shirts, too, with colored Swarovski spirograph-like designs. Kane works with a deft hand, and this show might well be his best possible CV for a future job at Ungaro.
Luella: Sugar and spice and everything subversive: That's what Luella Bartley's gals are made of. This youthful, playful collection was packed with flower prints, tropical punch colors, and sweet green plaids. Bartley paired them with black plastic collars, chunky zipper details, and come-hither glimpses of tulle peeking from under hemlines. Bartley, who moved her show to London this season to celebrate the opening of her first boutique, dressed her ladies in dainty, flower-print dresses and blouses with plastic corset belts or collars; pleated, tiered pouf dresses with zipper teeth edging; and yellow T-shirts with cartoonish black bat prints."She's a geeky girl who's still feminine and sexy," said Bartley, who plunked oversized, black-framed eyeglasses on models, and pulled their hair into goofy buns and pigtails. "She's into cartoon books and her heroine is Thora Birch from 'Ghost World.'" Even when Luella travels to the spooky side, she never stays for very long. As the show rolled on, the flower dresses lost their plastic bits and picked up sparkly red, black and blue stripes, and the finale was an explosion of red plastic sequins the size of silver dollars on a strapless mini. Finished off, of course, with a Batgirl mask.
Gareth Pugh: Pugh's reign as London's Prince of Darkness remains undisputed. The designer's formidable lineup for spring — if seasons count in the underworld — featured a stole crafted entirely from what looked like stuffed white mice, a dress made from ribbons of leather and a dazzling black, fringed Swarovski dress. The model's head was obscured by a box in the same material. But Pugh's look seemed a little more glam than usual, and he cited Michael Jackson's Eighties film "Moonwalker" as a reference. And the collection may be getting a little more commercial, too: Peel away the edgy styling — horse-tail headdresses, buckles and chains — and there are pieces that could work on the shop floor. Take the beautifully cut, textured leather trench, a body-conscious, black Swarovski minidress and a knife-pleated circle skirt. OK, so it's not everyday wear, but it wouldn't be out of place on the red carpet.
Peter Jensen: In Jensen's world — which revolved around John Waters' kitschy films this season — rebel rockabillies wearing skintight, black denim bustier dresses rubbed shoulders with Fifties housewives in blouses covered in sweet desert-island prints. The Fifties, in fact, were everywhere, from candy-colored poufy cocktail dresses to tight strapless gowns with trains. But all the twists and knots in the dress fabrics gave the collection a modern — rather than a costume party — feel.
Marios Schwab: It was body conscious, and then some. Schwab's stick-to-the-ribs ensembles featured prints inspired by human cells, muscles and nerves. But the result was a gentle kaleidoscope of color and texture, rather than the stuff of first-year medical school classes. Playing on the dissection theme, fabric was often peeled back to reveal layers of print beneath. The collection wasn't just inspired by lovely bones; there were sporty touches, too — some dresses featured oversize plastic zippers swiped from wetsuits, while others boasted harnesses crafted from plastic tubes or pearls.More From the Shows
Todd Lynn: Lynn played with the proportions and textures of his signature tuxedo jackets for spring, shrinking them into razor-sharp boleros and crafting biker jackets from heavy stretch cotton.
COS: The design message was simple, echoing Nineties Jil Sander with clean lines, playful use of volume and blocked muted tones accompanied by occasional bursts of color.
Unconditional: Unconventional formalwear bogged down a lively collection, which was at its best focusing on quirky blends of streetwear and off-the-wall items.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)