The ghostly and Gothic mix with the sweet on London’s runways.
Julien Macdonald: Restrained, classic, simple. Julien Macdonald dumped the vamps, the sexy Miss Marples, and the Russian trophy wives this season and moved on to the fresh-faced socialite. The collection had an innocence rarely seen on Macdonald's glittering runway. His latest girl wears sweet, crocheted dresses with matching jackets; crocheted tops paired with swingy minis, and zip-front color-block cardigans over fluid A-line dresses. For evening, Macdonald upped the glitter factor with short, tiered sequin dresses in Harlequin colors and patterns, and sparkle-studded flapper dresses with marabou edging. But the show was too long, and by the end Macdonald had lost his way. His strappy dresses — with or without buckles on the shoulder strap — resembled old Versace, and his bejeweled and fringed flapper dresses smacked of old Alice Temperley.
Christopher Kane: Kane's raw materials this season weren't promising: Bon Jovi shredded denim, reptile prints reminiscent of Roberto Cavalli and boho flounces à la Stevie Nicks. But somehow, out of the darkness, Kane's girl emerged looking like a goddess. She wore faded denim that was shredded or artfully sliced into ruffled skirts, jackets and skinny jeans. Her python- and lizard-print frills and flounces — which spilled over dresses, skirts and cowboy shirts — were subtle and came in shades of gray, peach and taupe. Some were even edged in delicate strips of python. There were rock 'n' roll jersey T-shirts, too, with colored Swarovski spirograph-like designs. Kane works with a deft hand, and this show might well be his best possible CV for a future job at Ungaro.
Luella: Sugar and spice and everything subversive: That's what Luella Bartley's gals are made of. This youthful, playful collection was packed with flower prints, tropical punch colors, and sweet green plaids. Bartley paired them with black plastic collars, chunky zipper details, and come-hither glimpses of tulle peeking from under hemlines. Bartley, who moved her show to London this season to celebrate the opening of her first boutique, dressed her ladies in dainty, flower-print dresses and blouses with plastic corset belts or collars; pleated, tiered pouf dresses with zipper teeth edging; and yellow T-shirts with cartoonish black bat prints.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)