When Tess Giberson relaunched her collection last spring after a five-year hiatus — during which time she consulted and served as design director for Tse — it wasn’t a simple reboot. Before, the company was a one-woman operation focused around pricy handcrafted wares. Now Giberson is working with two business partners, Harriet Lau and Vickie See, and has repositioned the line at a contemporary price point. “It’s more about the bigger picture,” says Giberson. “I finally have the support to be able to think in a bigger scope.” On May 5, that will expand further when she officially opens her first flagship at 97 Crosby Street in New York’s SoHo.
The 1,200-square-foot space is one the designer has been quietly fine-tuning since she moved in last September, using it as her studio and showroom. “Then we realized it was a perfect space to start doing retail,” she says. “Crosby Street has such a great feeling. You can avoid the chaos of SoHo here. And there’s the Crosby Hotel [a few doors down].” So in January, Giberson began renovations and, last month, had a soft launch “to see how we wanted to lay things out,” she adds. “Having your own retail [store] is such an amazing tool to be able to express your vision, to have the environment to show my clothes exactly the way I want.”
The shop, which takes up 600 square feet, reflects the same sensibilities at the core of Giberson’s clothes — conceptual yet commercial, minimal but not sterile. It also taps into the notion of raw-meets-refined that has been a hallmark of her designs, which, for fall, include lush textured knits and chiffon dresses appliquéd with laser-cut tulle.
But beyond showcasing her clothes (and come fall 2013, handbags and shoes), the flagship also gives Giberson the opportunity to plug her network of talented friends. For starters, See’s boyfriend Alvin Lim, owner of Ambush boutique in Singapore, oversees the store’s retail operations, while the jewelry is courtesy of Ninh Wysocan, a fellow Rhode Island School of Design alum. Also for sale are old-school casette tapes, leftovers from Rob Pruitt and Jack Early’s controversial 1992 art show “Red, Black, Green, Red, White and Blue.”
“Everything I’m bringing in is either from a direct friend or friend of a friend,” Giberson remarks, noting she’s also working on a sunglass collaboration with artist-cum-musician Hisham Akira Bharoocha to make its debut next spring. Meanwhile, she’s also selling art books from Tokyo’s Taka Ishii Gallery, where Giberson’s husband, artist Jon Widman, has shown work since 2004. Widman, in fact, is one of two artists whose work is on display in Giberson’s store. He created a series of hexagonal collages, featuring spliced photos of nature and meditative hand gestures, inspired by his wife’s spring line. “He’ll always be involved,” she says. “It may not necessarily be a collage. He’s also helping bring in the objects, books and the records.”
As for the art installation, just left of the store’s entrance, it was created by Carol Bove, who also made the metal backdrop for Giberson’s spring 2011 presentation. The new piece features an intriguing arrangement of peacock feathers, a dried walnut swinging from a brass frame and artfully draped mesh. There are more Bove pieces by the cash wrap, including a quill-filled wall sculpture. “I’ve known Carol for such a long time,” says Giberson, who plans to feature a rotating roster of artists. “I knew that what she would do would work because that’s my experience — working with people I trust.”
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye