NEW YORK — "The way there was a camellia for the past, there will be a camellia for the future," proclaimed a cartoon Karl Lagerfeld to a cartoon Coco Chanel as the flowers swirled around their heads. The illustrated fashion titans were...
NEW YORK — "The way there was a camellia for the past, there will be a camellia for the future," proclaimed a cartoon Karl Lagerfeld to a cartoon Coco Chanel as the flowers swirled around their heads. The illustrated fashion titans were on-screen in Ruben Toledo’s short film, "Fashionation."
"It’s a love poem to French fashion," said Toledo of the film, which was introduced Thursday night at the French Consulate by Nordstrom president Peter Nordstrom and Didier Grumbach, president of France’s Chambre Syndicale. The movie, which was jointly funded by the department store and the Chambre, combines Toledo’s love of cataloging, the alphabet and what he calls "the language of fashion." As designers’ names and letters of the alphabet marched across the screen, he journeyed from Azzedine Alaïa to Yves Saint Laurent, tossing in even the likes of Paquin, Lapidus and Delauney.
Toledo spliced his witty illustrations together with archival runway and atelier footage from some prominent houses, as well as current interviews with Karl Lagerfeld, Sonia Rykiel and Christian Lacroix. The artist cast a wide net. For his pit stops at Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Dior, for example, Toledo covered both past and present, transitioning from Cristobal, Yves and Christian to Nicolas, Tom and John.
The audience seemed to eat it all up. Even the relatively recent footage of the early Nineties modeling triumvirate Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington vamping on Thierry Mugler’s runway sent a hush over the crowd, while a scene of a model donning a clever Schiaparelli wrap-around dress elicited appreciative "oohs" and "aahs." One of the most memorable segments was the finale (after Z for "Zee End"): footage of a 1954 event staged to promote Parisian fashion when couturiers sent dozens of models streaming down a staircase at Versailles.
Although Toledo originally envisioned "a four-hour ‘Gone With the Wind’-type epic with an intermission and a cast of millions," creating the 28-minute film still took the better part of the past four months. The artist, who worked with Ink Tank, an animation studio, jokingly estimated the time it took to get his drawings together as "two million years." But in spite of the time factor, he has retained his enthusiasm for the project. "We were like kids in a candy store," Toledo said of researching it. "I could have done a full-length movie on every designer."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast