Students graduating last week from the School of Fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco might say their B.F.A.’s and M.F.A.’s are proof of surviving a fashion boot camp rooted in London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. Two Saint Martins graduates, Gladys Perint Palmer and Simon Ungless, lead the fashion school, sticking to the Saint Martins way of requiring fashion design students to do it all, from sketching and pattern making to fabric design and sewing. After that, they can break the rules.
“Some students want to start without a solid concept,” said Ungless, before the graduation fashion show. “They want to shock you, but they don’t get very far in the design process.” This spring the school awarded 54 B.F.A.’s and 26 M.F.A.’s.
After the presentation, the fashion school gave honorary doctorates of Humane Letters to British fashion illustrator David Downton and Prosper and Martine Assouline of Assouline Publishing in Paris and New York. Earlier in the day, the Assoulines told students they don’t expect their high-end fashion and style books to ever be issued as e-books. However, the company is turning its Web site into a separate Internet magazine as a brand-builder.
“The changes with the Internet bring out so many possibilities, but we will never say goodbye to books,” said Martine Assouline during a fashion media panel discussion.
Panel member Patrick Cabasset, editor in chief of the Paris fashion magazine L’Officiel, said keeping a newsstand presence is crucial for publications. “If you disappear completely from the newsstands, you disappear completely, because everyone is on the Internet today,” Cabasset said.
With so many ways to communicate, Downton told students, there’s a lot of room to do your own thing, particularly in fashion illustration. Downton himself, for instance, self-publishes fashion illustration journal Pourquoi Pas?, or PQP, with no advertising. “Today, you make your own mark,” Downton told students. “One thing I’m hoping will come out of this recession,” he added, “is that people will understand fashion illustration is cheap,” with just one person being paid instead of a creative team.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)