FRANKFURT — Is it the motor of our consumption-oriented society, a patriotic duty, an innocuous pastime, or, as some fashionistas might argue, an art form?
Shopping is a many splendored thing, as the exhibit of the same name at Frankfurt’s Schirn Kunsthalle amplifies. It’s a subject that has fascinated, aggravated, inspired and compelled artists for more than 100 years.
On view here through Dec. 1 and then at the Tate Liverpool in England from Dec. 20 to Mar. 23, the exhibit features about 200 examples of shopping-related art works. It moves from early shop window photographs by Eugène Atget and Berenice Abbot to surrealist mannequin fantasies, Bauhaus displays and Pop and Fluxus reconstructions, including the "American Supermarket."
For a week in 1964, the New York Bianchini gallery became a grocery store of non-edibles from the likes of Andy Warhol, Robert Watts and Roy Lichtenstein.
Also on view at the Schirn are Claes Oldenburg’s "Store," Jeff Koon’s "New Series" Hoover vacuums, Damien Hirst’s "Pharmacy" installation and Sylvie Fleury’s shoe lover’s fantasy "Pleasures," as well as Tom Sach’s spoofs on designer packaging and Andreas Gursky’s famous photographs of Prada and bargain shops.
Some works were commissioned for the exhibit, while others were placed around the city to promote the show.
The largest, located on Frankfurt’s busiest shopping street, is by Barbara Kruger, famous for her 1987 dictum, "I Shop Therefore I Am." Her new work dominates the four-story facade of the Kaufhof Galeria department store, with two huge eyes watching over the swarming pedestrian traffic. The caption in German reads: "You love it, you dream it, you need it, you buy it, you forget it."
"The fact that the store collaborated in such a way is great. Can you imagine that happening in the States?" Kruger mused during opening festivities here last month. As for shopping, the artist finds the activity "very complicated and very easy."
"It’s not necessarily about buying, but about looking, cruising and framing the idea of perfection," she said. "It’s about looking at something and saying, psychologically, ‘That’s me.’"In 1985, Andy Warhol stated, "Lock up a department store today, open the door after a hundred years and you will have a Museum of Modern Art." Artist Haim Steinbach turned that concept around, transforming the Schirn museum into a department store.
Steinbach collaborated with German fashion house Strenesse to install some 90 feet of clothed and partially clothed mannequins in the windows of the museum. For unsuspecting pedestrians, the effect was one of curious displacement.
The theme continues inside. Visitors to the museum must first pass through a turnstile and grocery-stocked aisles resembling those of supermarket chain Tengelmann. But it’s art, not shopping. The visually stunning arrangements of laundry soaps and fruit juice by artist Guillaume Bijl are not for sale.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty