Soft, billowing shapes have a charming lightness, which is winning in any season, but especially in one that puts simple, quiet looks front and center.
Stella McCartney: The big lesson at Stella McCartney's show on Thursday morning: Quiet clothes don't have to be dull. That may not be a bulletin to anyone familiar with the clean sportswear favored by Seventies-era jet-set types, but McCartney's spring collection was a refreshing reminder nonetheless. And her timing felt just right.
Opening with a simple white blazer over pale gray pants, she put the blaring soundtrack and brazen attitude on hold. Tailored pieces showed off McCartney's Savile Row signature, while her trademark rock 'n' roll flou came neatened up in a paper-thin lavender shirtdress.
Calm though it was, however, McCartney's look exuded a womanly confidence and sophisticated steam. Her classic combinations included a billowing white shirt with smart tailored shorts. Her after-dark options ranged from structured cocktail dresses to flyaway chiffons, some done up with candy-colored prints culled from paintings by Jeff Koons, who was at the show. But throughout it all, McCartney demonstrated a control and maturity that can elude young designers desperate to make big statements and conceptual clothes. She knows fashion serves a purpose beyond feeding the designer's ego. She's smart enough to put her customers first.
Dries Van Noten: Taking inspiration from artist James McNeill Whistler's late 19th-century portraits of women and the Japanese prints that influenced Whistler in turn, Dries Van Noten put together a stunning spring collection. And while his muses may have been dated, Van Noten's breezy clothes certainly weren't.
Van Noten has an idiosyncratic vision and a gorgeous sense of color — from bisque to cherry red and from deep indigo to burnt orange. Here all those elements came into perfect harmony, as seen with a pale peach slipdress dip-dyed with a streaky band of olive around its middle. Kimono jackets washed soft and worn with long walking skirts gave off an earthy elegance. Layers of neutral linens lent the collection a subtle intrigue, and oversized prints gave it all a worldly spin.
After all, Van Noten is no fair-weather bohemian hoping to liaise with the artsy set for a season, nor is he interested in trumped-up period costumes. His carefully crafted look was as believable as it was beguiling.Givenchy: Memo to Riccardo Tisci: Please get a grip. Tisci presented himself as a designer of interest in his couture debut in July, a Goth-chic reverie he made compelling despite its irritating presentation. Yet in his first ready-to-wear effort on Wednesday, he ditched the path just started in favor of a different direction entirely, retaining only his penchant for theatricality — one that pulsed with a pretension as gigantic as the sphere obstructing much of his stark white set and his final bow.
Tisci replaced his dark divas of haute with an influx of zombie-dominatrix hybrids who moved mechanically around — and around and around — the set in dazed defiance of the audience's own inevitable trance. Which is too bad, because, despite their whopping homage to Azzedine Alaïa, some of the clothes — mostly variations on skintight trumpet skirts — were really good, suggesting a creator who could develop his craft into a serious business.
First, however, Tisci must accept that he has a mammoth task ahead of him. After 10 years of musical designers, Givenchy has virtually no identity beyond the retro shade of Audrey Hepburn and, some would say, no real reason to exist. Tisci's first priority — before sourcing hideous shoes and silly props — must be to discern for himself what exactly his Givenchy is to be about, and then start spelling it out clearly and concisely for the rest of us.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)