WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR AND ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
ALEXANDER WANG Brooklyn.
Alexander Wang might have rocked the proverbial boat by daring to show his fall collection in the borough; still, everyone showed up. That’s a testament to Wang’s status as one of the most exciting talents in New York, a sentiment heightened by his role as creative director of Balenciaga in Paris, and the recent news that the designer would be H&M’s next collaborator.
His past two collections further cemented Wang’s appeal. For spring, he riffed on branding and censorship—as in name logos, the Parental Advisory warning motif—with traditional men’s wear details, or, as he puts it, “utility and function, mixed with traditional sartorial men’s wear elements.
“When I approach the collections, I like to think about it in a less specific context and a connection to something that feels right ‘now,’ yet has a familiarity to it,” he explains. “I constantly strive to build and find a balance between the construction, the design and the approachability to garments.”
The designer’s accessories approach reflects this, too. Case in point: fall’s cool multipocket handbags and fanny packs.
“Similarly to apparel, I don’t have a ‘philosophy,’” Wang says, “but I try to find a sense of the everyday: accessories that complement an urban uniform, providing both function and ease.” — Marc Karimzadeh
Joseph Altuzarra had a good year. In the first week of September, Kering took a minority investment, estimated at 40 percent, in his five-year-old label. Two days later, he showed a stunning spring collection, a highlight of the four-city season, inspired by the Japanese patchwork technique of Boro and Altuzarra’s now-signature French-American sophistication.
Just as compelling was his fall collection of artisanal craftsmanship and colorful plaid furs.
“We explored new ideas of ease and comfort, while continuing to develop our signature tailoring,” says Altuzarra, who won the 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and 2012 Swarovski Award for Womenswear.
In between the two main seasons came the company’s first expansion enabled by Kering cash: pre-fall. Accessories—handbags and shoes—are next on the agenda. And if his past shoe collaborations with Gianvito Rossi are any indication, killer heels are on the horizon. — Jessica Iredale MARC JACOBS
“Let’s do what we love, and do a lot of it,” Marc Jacobs says, recalling his approach to spring 2014. His inspiration: the Leading Player of Pippin, who challenges the young royal’s life choices. “This is the way you want to live?” he questions. “No costumes?...No magic!”
Jacobs indeed did “a lot of it,” presenting a treatise on brooding Victoriana with a surfer subplot (the set was a stylized beach, post-catastrophic event) and piles of decorative excess, down to the elaborately wrought sneakers.
Five months later, for fall, Jacobs worked one of his signature dramatic reversals, stripping away the excess, the pilings, the dark froth.
“There’s always a reaction to the thing before,” he says, now embracing the “very light, very soft, very fresh.” He kept his colors cosmetic, his lines languid and decoration to a minimum via gentle hand-painting and filmy organza tiers. His models walked beneath an Armory sky of 400 pillow clouds—at first delightfully fluffy but increasingly ominous as the light changed—to Jessica Lange’s eerie recitation of the Depression-era anthem “Happy Days Are Here Again.”
As different as the collections were, both resonated unmistakably Jacobs, as they channeled the designer’s emotional approach and love of pure fashion into exquisite clothes. — Bridget Foley
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye